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I am trying to install a new 1 piece relay/overload in place of a 2 piece relay and overload that went bad on my fridge. The parts place I bought it from, (here) says this is the correct replacement, but it only has 2 visible (male) easy glide connectors, where the combined connectors on my fridges wires are 4. Here's what I am dealing with....as you can see on my drawing, there is a pair of black wires that come from the run capacitor and connect to the start relay. there is another pair of black wires that come from the condenser fan and one connects to the start relay the other to the overload. Finally, there are a pair of wires(orange and white) that come from up in the fridge and go, one to the start relay and one to the overload. On the "ask a question" tab on this part's page I asked (someone at appliance parts pros)how to deal with this, and I got this reply: Hello Brenda, You will have to trace wires back to the condenser fan motor. The hot wire coming off the condenser fan motor, either blue or orange will go to the L1 on the new relay. The white wire from the condenser fan will go to the N on the new relay. The other wires will be eliminated from the circuit at this point.
First, both wires from the fan are black, one ridged and plain the other smooth with writing on it. If I use both of these wires, how does power reach the rest of the fridge? Second,if the instructions were correct, what do I do with the abandoned wires? Just tape them off w/electrical tape? I would like anyone else's ideas on this (as a second opinion) and also because I couldn't get through for the follow up question regarding the unused wires. Thanks for any help you can give.......... ~Brenda BSTrue attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Member
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If anyone would be willing to help me here, I'd really appreciate it! Here (See below) is the drawing of what I'm working with. One pic is the original setup, and the other is what I am considering doing. Could I leave the run capacitor out of the circuit? I thought maybe to remove the wire coming from the run cap. and use just the black and white wires still attached to that clip to go to one of the terminals on the new relay, and then combine the other black wire coming from the condenser fan with the orange wire to go to the other terminal on the new relay. Which terminal does the orange/black wires go to, and which terminal does the white/black wires go to? The 2 terminals on the relay are labeled L and N. Thanks, Brenda BSTrue attached the following image(s):
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First, you must use the original run capacitor, adds run torque to the motor.
Second, I need the part number of the new start device.
Third, I need to know if the fridg is a full size fridg and if it has r12 refigerant in it, this info is on the nameplate.
Finally, is the run capacitor a low value one like 15 uf?
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Rank: Member
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Hello, Thanks for your help,
The part number for the new start device is W10189190.
The fridge is a full size, side by side and it does have r12 refrigerant in it.
The run capacitor is a 15 uf.
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First thing, the start device part # you gave must be incorrect, will not work.
Second, it looks like it has no terminals to plug in the run capacitor so it cannot be used, you must plug in the run capacitor.
Next, looks like your old start device was a ptc device, small, brown or black item with two compressor terminals. If so, and you have a meter you can test it.
Next, what was the original problem,no start, or the compressor vibrating but no cooling.
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I thought this might be the wrong part for the same reason, but I am assured at numerous parts sites that this is the correct replacement start relay/overload part. It only has two of the metal tabs to slide on a connector onto, but now I am thinking that the 2 slots on the back may be for sliding in the metal tab type ends that you can crimp onto wire ends. I scanned one side of the part(turned out ok) but the other side wouldn't lay flat for a scan, so I drew it in paint. I'm attaching the 2 pics.... The original part has quite a bit of junk rattling around in it, and I followed the instructions to test it, it failed. I also tested the compressor according to some directions I found, and it was ok. My original problem was that the fridge/freezer completely quit cooling, but the fans inside and the fan by the condenser both were working, the compressor just wasn't kicking in. I didn't hear any clicking or anything, just no cold. BSTrue attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Looks like you can just plug in the start device in the compressor, then connect the two refrigerator power wires to the side by side spade terminals.
The other thin slots are for the run capacitor to plug into. If the run capacitor does not have male spade terminals, you will have to buy a new one, or crimp on male spade terminals on the old run capacitor.
The condenser fan motor wires get attached to the two refrigerator power wires.
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Rank: Member
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Ok, so I will crimp the orange wire and the smooth black wire from the condenser fan together, and the white wire and the ridged black wire from the condenser fan together.
Which goes on the L terminal of the relay? ( I assume the other will go to the N terminal)
Also, does it matter which of the run capacitor leads plug into either of the female slots?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The power wiring to the start device is not polarity sensitive and so is the capacitor. Don't worry, with this device you can't burn out the compressor, but if you have a meter you can verify you have not shorted power wires.
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Rank: Member
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I followed your instructions, and I'm happy to say that the fridge is up and running cold! thanks a million for you help, I am posting a final diagram showing what was done to get the existing wires ready to adapt to the new relay, maybe someone will be able to use it in the future to help them too. Thanks again richappy, you rock! :D Regards, Brenda BSTrue attached the following image(s):
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