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How can I test if the ignitors are getting enough,or using enough amps? First time doing this stuff. I borrowed a Electro- tek meter, with probes. Can not afford a new oven right now!
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Originally Posted by: scottkoch  How can I test if the ignitors are getting enough,or using enough amps? First time doing this stuff. I borrowed a Electro- tek meter, with probes. Can not afford a new oven right now! Scott, You can't check the voltage to the igniters, not without a special meter anyway, the DC voltage is too high. You can check the igniters and wires for resistance and possible shorts to the chassis,panels or pipes. Here's a helpfull post from the APP Repair Forum, if you need it : http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.htmlYou most likely have an issue with the spark module, or a lot of debris on the burner bases and igniters, based on your post description. Part number: AP4041505
Good Luck, :) :) :)
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The ignitors on the oven are the "stone" type, They turn red. but no gas. I've read to check the AMP draw from the ignitor. The oven ignitor comes on when it is in bake mode,the broil ignitor is on when in broil. To check the AMPS, would I keep one wire "solid" and split the other and check with the tester? I Thank you for replies. Can not afford a new oven now. Times are tough, can't get a decent oven for under $500.00 dollars!(on the cheap end!)
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Originally Posted by: scottkoch The ignitors on the oven are the "stone" type, They turn red. but no gas. I've read to check the AMP draw from the ignitor. The oven ignitor comes on when it is in bake mode,the broil ignitor is on when in broil. To check the AMPS, would I keep one wire "solid" and split the other and check with the tester? I Thank you for replies. Can not afford a new oven now. Times are tough, can't get a decent oven for under $500.00 dollars!(on the cheap end!) Scott, Sorry, I guess I misunderstood your question, my fault. What you want to test is voltage to the bake burner valve(s). You want to trace the wire from the igniter to the gas valve. With a temperature programmed, when the glow bar is glowing, there should be 3.2 to 3.6 VAC across the two wires attached to the gas valve. Voltage below 3.2 VAC at the wires, will not open the switch in the valve and gas will not be released. If you have a "Clamp On" amp meter, the system should draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps , while the igniter is glowing ( just clamp the meter around one of the wires). I'm sure all you need is an igniter, Part number: AP4012072
But you will be positive after the tests. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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I found it very convenient to just plug my stove power cord into KILL A WATT voltage/amp/KWH meter (about $20-30 online) instead of pulling things apart and reaching underneath with an AC clamp meter. I could see my oven igniter only drawing 2.5A and the broiler igniter drawing 3.4A. Those igniters look like the same parts; I might just swap them for a test before ordering the part!
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Originally Posted by: pingu I found it very convenient to just plug my stove power cord into KILL A WATT voltage/amp/KWH meter (about $20-30 online) instead of pulling things apart and reaching underneath with an AC clamp meter. I could see my oven igniter only drawing 2.5A and the broiler igniter drawing 3.4A. Those igniters look like the same parts; I might just swap them for a test before ordering the part! Pingu, You could "swap" the igniters, it will help to verify the issue, But you already know that's the issue. If the igniter doesn't draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps, it won't open the safety valve or ignite the gas supply. Also "swapping" the igniter will keep you going, until the new part arrives.
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