JH, We don't really think you've "cooked it". Just like all the previous posts stated, check and replace the "fan" limit switch and the "oven" limit switch. They have been allowwed to overheat, and are most likely "weak". The easiest way to diagnose a faulty cooling fan motor, is to apply 120 VAC across the terminals, if the motor runs, your fan is OK. A quick explanation: If the cooling fan or cooling fan limit switch have failed, the heat from the oven is allowed to accumulate under the cook top,and in the control panel area, this causes the oven limit switch to "open", and the switch eliminates power to the control and the range is not usable, until the limit switch resets to the "closed" position and power is available to the control.
Now the control panel heat and the door not closing proper, will require the installation of a "new" revised oven door latch assembly

Part number: AP4104082

JH, Since you'll have the cooktop up, to access the limit switches, you'll be able to replace the latch assembly, pretty easily (a couple of more steps),
1. Turn off electrical power and gas to the range.
2. Disconnect gas and power from unit.
3. Remove maintop assembly.
4. Disconnect and label the wire terminals.
5. Remove plastic handle from manual latch arm.
6. Remove screws securing latch assembly to chassis.
7. Replace and reassemble in reverse order.
If you do need a cooling fan, You'll need to contact the manufacturer or review the internet for obsolete / discontinued parts using the manufacturer's part number.
We wouldn't expect you to need the oven door hinges, unless there's an issue with them being noisy, loose, or bent, but if you do decide to install new hinges, here's some help
Oven Door Hinge
1. Turn off electrical power to range.
2. Remove oven door assembly from the range, remove screws securing oven door to hinges if so equipped.
3. Carefully open the hinge fully, and insert a wooden dowel or screwdriver bit into opening between the hinge pivot pin, and upper door hinge arm(to lock the hinge in the open position).
4. Remove the top and bottom screws securing hinge
assembly to the front frame.
5. Slide the hinge assembly up and move top of hinge
towards rear of the range. Withdraw hinge assembly
through the frame opening.
6. Reverse procedure to reinstall oven door hinge
assembly.

Thanks,

JH, Everything you'll need is mentioned in the previous posts, For the "shut down" issue. Chances are you won't need the fan, but you'll need to take care of the limits switches. As for the "hot" control panel issue, there are several things you need to check and replace. Fisrt make sure the door seal is not damaged, torn, or badly worn in the lower corners, where the gasket meets the oven cavity. Make sure your gasket isn't dirty or has hard spots in it(you may just want or have to clean the seal with a mild detergent and scrub brush). If the gasket is OK, you'll want to replace the self clean door latch assembly

Part number: AP4104082

rgenzink, If you're working on a ACS3350AS, like the previous post, you need to realize the cooling fan will not activate until the area under the cooktop reaches a temperature of 155 dgrs., then the limit switch will "close" and supply power to the cooling fan. So lower temperatures and shorter cooking periods, you may not hear the cooling fan run. On the other hand, longer cooking periods and higher temperatures will cause the cooling fan to activate, and usually remain on until the area reaches 115 dgrs. then the switch opens and power to the fan is eliminated.

Under the circumstances, you'll need to check and verify there are no loose connections at the Clock/ERC , J4 connector the black and white wire(s) and the J5 connector black/white wire. If all's OK, then the issue could be a weak circuit in the ERC/Clock circuit

Part number: AP4041311

Mat, As noted in the previous post the control panel heat is due to the door not closing/sealing properly the recommended repair is to replace the door latch assembly and the door hinges to achieve a proper seal and reduce the air over the control panel.

When the oven limit switch opens at approx. 240 dgrs. power to the control is eliminated and the display and ERC go blank, and the limit has to cool back down to 210 dgrs. before power will be restored.

When the fan limit reaches a temperature of 155 dgrs, the switch closes and supplies power to the fan in order to reduce the heat under the cook top. The fan switch is an "open" circuit below 155 dgrs.

You can use a meter and boiling water and thermostat to test the limit switches.

There is also a tech data sheet and wiring diagram attached to this post, you'll have a better idea of the operation of the range and the limits and circuitry you'll be concerned with.