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after reading a few of the other issues with the cleaning cycle kills, kinda thinking we have our answer, however. This oven was installed August 2012. Ran 1st cleaning cycle today. Went just fine. I stopped it after 2.5 hours, according to the directions. When we tried to us it tonight, would not heat. Everything else functioned properly. Tried all the settings and nothing. Thermostat? Should we also replace the Thermal Fuse?
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Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool KEBC107KSS05 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.comIf the unit stays in pre-heat then it is probably just the thermal fuse. If the unit is under warranty and installed as per the manufacturers instructions, the I would get them to fix it under warranty. There is a possibility that the temperature sensor has a problem that allowed the unit to overheat. You could replace it as a precaution or after the unit is repaired use an oven thermometer to check that the unit regulates the heat properly (especially at a high heat setting) |
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Thankx Denman, When you press bake, and set temp, it does look like it is just fine. Just no heat, like after an hour, nothing. Tried all setting and even on broil nothing even trys to heat up. Is it still the sensor?
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[COLOR="Blue"]Is it still the sensor?[/COLOR]
Only if the unit shows that the oven is ready will it be a oven sensor.
I am not sure what type of oven ready indicator you have.
Some units turn a ready light on and some turn a preheat light off. |
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So what it is doing is that when you press bake, the display on the left of the panel shows that it will start at 350. It also shows that both of the elements are ready to go. Hit start, a few seconds later the display shows Lo, which is normal but then is suppose to go to the real temp and it does not do this. The fan is runing and if you did not know better you would think that it will heat up. After an hour it still shows Lo and it is cold inside. Tried the convection and it shows the fan runing but no elements. On broil, much like bake, it shows element ready to go and after 15 minutes or so, cold on the element.
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See the attachment for the tech sheet As you can see from the wiring diagram the thermal fuse kills power to all the elements. I read the operators manual and the display will stay at Lo until the oven reaches 170 degrees then it will start to read the actual temperature. So the thermal fuse is still at the top of my list, only because you ran a self clean cycle. Remove power from the unit and one wire at the thermal fuse. Then measure it with a meter should be 0 ohms. If there had been no self clean then a power problem would be at the top. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Do this with the heater off and on. [COLOR="Red"] Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR] |
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