Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying, with the motor on the floor, hooked up, even WITHOUT the timer (another guy gave me a way to bypass the timer, making a power cord with multiple connectors so we can simulate the cycles of the machine when the motor was in place, i.e. one direction spins the drum, the other direction moves the agitator post). So just power going into the motor, it hums, and waits for me to start it by hand, but will then continue.
-- When It does start (and stop, when I turn off the power), there is a reasonably loud click sound, like a switch activating.
Just to confirm, I'm checking wire locations ON THE MOTOR itself, where the harness plugs in, right, so I can remove the motor completely, set it aside from the washer, and check the wire connections with the multimeter, right? I'm not checking the harness end that is attached to the washer, I'm checking the motor terminals.
Results:
White to Blue = 1.1 ohms
Red to Yellow = 7.3 ohms
White to Violet = There is no violet wire
Blue in to Blue out = 0 ohms
Red in to Black out = 0.1 ohms
Orange in to Blue out = There is no orange wire
Haven't checked with power on yet, as I wasn't able to complete what you asked thus far.
I really appreciate your help with this Eric, it seems to have stumped every other website I've been to. One guy said it was the capacitor, but when I checked that, the reading started high, then dwindled away to almost zero, which is what it's meant to do, right? Another guy suggested the clutch, but when I checked this by starting the motor by hand (installed), it functioned normally for both agitation and spin operations. I dropped the clutch down, there's no leakage of oil, and everything looks clean and new inside.
Should I repeat the above wire connectivity tests with the power on?
Now when you say "comfortable", what, exactly, should I not be comfortable about...
And can I do it using the bypass harness, so we're checking just the motor, or should I wire it back up to the washer to check?
Many thanks!
Mark
