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I ran this dryer (Maytag, Model; MDE9700AYW) for several years and my grandaughter has it now. She just moved into a new place and it quit heating. I checked it out and the Thermal Cut Out was open so I replaced it. She dried two loads and it happened again. I assumed it was a venting problem so I cleaned everything, replaced the part and had her try it venting straight out. Two loads later it happened again. While cleaning and checking everything I noticed that the plate between the heating coils is cracked clear through. Could that be the cause? It is the only anomoly I can find. I have also tried to find a replacement heating element on your site but cannot locate a compatible unit. Any help you can provide to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated.
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Here are your parts Parts for Maytag MDE9700AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com[COLOR="Blue"] Could that be the cause?[/COLOR] Yes. Below is some info on blown thermal cut-offs. Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows. [COLOR="Blue"]I have also tried to find a replacement heating element on your site but cannot locate a compatible unit.[/COLOR] Heater should be Item 8 in Section 01 of the parts. But double check with the parts people. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Parts for Maytag MDE9700AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comCould that be the cause? Yes. Below is some info on blown thermal cut-offs. Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows. I have also tried to find a replacement heating element on your site but cannot locate a compatible unit. Heater should be Item 8 in Section 01 of the parts. But double check with the parts people. Thanks for the information, however it is not solving the problem. I checked the heating element and got 10-12 ohms just like you said and open readings to the case. The coil appears to be in good shape and all insulators are in good condition. I rechecked the plate that goes between the coils. Only a small necked down section is cracked but the plate still has continuity and prevents any contact between the coil or case. The end of the plate farthest from the connectors is discolored from the rest of the plate, kind of grayish. Any other checks I can make to try to chase this problem down?
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Hi.
Sorry for cutting in. It's possible that the heat relay in the control board is stuck closed. Check if the heater cycling on and off.
Simon.
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi.
Sorry for cutting in. It's possible that the heat relay in the control board is stock closed. Check if the heater cycling on and off.
Simon. No need to apologize, I'll take all the help I can get. How do I go about checking that?
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Visually or placing the thermostat at the dryer's vent opening.
Also by using an amp probe.
Simon.
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Visually or placing the thermostat at the dryer's vent opening.
Also by using an amp probe.
Simon. Sorry, I'm not following you on this one. Do you mean a thermometer at the vent opening? If so, what kind of fluctiations should I get? Where do I check with an amp probe?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Sorry, my fault. Thermometer is what I meant.The heater cycles between about 155F and 125F.
You may clamp on the amp meter over the L2 at the connector block or the easiest would be just look at the dryer's back in the dark room. You should be able to see the element glowing.
Simon.
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No need for a sorry with me either. The more info and suggestions we can give a poster the more likely that we can help get a unit up and running. See the attachment for the tech sheet. If you run the unit on a high and then a low heat setting you should be able to feel the difference in heat output, though Simon's method is more exact. Also the heating coil should cycle on low heat. You may also want to check the thermistor, see the tech sheet. Be sure to unplug at keast one side of it. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. |
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Originally Posted by: denman No need for a sorry with me either.
The more info and suggestions we can give a poster the more likely that we can help get a unit up and running.
See the attachment for the tech sheet.
If you run the unit on a high and then a low heat setting you should be able to feel the difference in heat output, though Simon's method is more exact.
Also the heating coil should cycle on low heat.
You may also want to check the thermistor, see the tech sheet.
Be sure to unplug at keast one side of it. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. Ok guys, I went to check the cycling of the heating element but before I did I checked the the Thermistor--it is open. I have one on order and will let you know what happens when I get it replaced.
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