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Joined: 12/3/2007(UTC) Posts: 25
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Having a bit of trouble lifting a main top on sealed ignitor top burners. Gas Range, Whirlpool. Can't access under top. The clips on the front will loosen to lift front, about two inches, but the back of main top will not lift. Job aid says to remove main top, after removing sealed burners, push right or left to loosen hinge from under control panel, But the Burners screws are rusted and won't come out. Can't the top just be lifted without removing burners, is there a latch or clip holding the main top in back from being lifted. Any help appreciated. Thanks!
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Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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You can not remove the top panel without removing all burners first. Rusted screws is a very common problem with most of stoves and the only way to remove them is to drill them out and replace with a new screws. If you need to replace just a burner igniter, you do not have to remove all burners. Remove the one with the bad igniter, cut off the igniter wire and attach new one, using a wire nut. - Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool range Model SF360BEEW0Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/3/2007(UTC) Posts: 25
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Thanks! For info. I kind of had my suspicions, but had to double check. When drilling out a screw on an appliance, won't it hurt the threads. And if so, don't you then have to use a tap and dye set, or in this case a complete burner and ignitor replacement. Do the screw extractors, like the sears screw out exractors work on these situations. The screw out extractors I see advertised claim that all you need is a drill and the screw out extractors for them to work. Do you have any experience with these tools. Thanks for info.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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This is a sheet metal screw which goes into the top panel, not into the burner body. After you drilled it out, you can use a bigger screw.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/3/2007(UTC) Posts: 25
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I wish I had thought of that. I thought the burners were threaded. The stove I was working on is old, and rusty. I didn't want to damage it any further with all the rust and stuff. Had I known the burners were not threaded I could have easily tapped on them to loosen them, then gotten the screws out. Wow what a dope I was. Glad you pointed that out, to late for me on that one, but I didn't do to much damage to the burner itself other than a little larger screw hole, will this effect the operation of the burner. I haven't replaced the ignitor yet, got to buy one! I just hope it's the ignitor. All the other ignitors are working. I hope the switch is O.K. How do you check the switch! Thanks!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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If you can hear the spark when you turn the knob "on" - the switch is fine.
Gene.
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