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I would like to know how to test the cycle switch out when disconnected from the wire harness. What resistance readings should I get for high temperature where the blue and violet wires connect on my wgd 5500sqo.
My gas dryer ignites flame, plenty of air flow out duct, flame is rather quiet and stays on but drying clothes takes a loooong time. I get open readings accross the med and high settings on the cycle switch? Diagram only says: high setting minimum 10K and open meets that but a tolerance would be nice like 10K + or - 2k ohms. I have looked but have not found it on forum.
There is also a resistor of about 6.2K ohms accross back of switch.
Thank you.
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Rank: Member
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82F after 2minutes, stable at 88F after 5minutes
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Replace the cycling and the hi-limit thermostats (#9 & #15 at the diagram). Redo the temperature test. - The cycling thermostat Part number: 3387134
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Thank you, but I am a do it your self tech due to limited funding. I would like to know how to positively identify the cycling and the hi-limit thermostats as inoperative prior to purchase.
I have learned to read my: simpson 260, Fluke 70, 77, 78, 79, & 23, also current clamps and a few others.
Thank you for any additional advice.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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It is impossible to check these parts if they are out of temperature range. On other side you have nothing to loose because you can return any parts ordered from APP.
Gene.
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Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.
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Rank: Member
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Studying the wire diagram, I see that if any of the four: the Hi limit, thermal cutoff, cycling thermostat, or the thermal fuse were open: 120VAC would never reach the ignitor or gas valve coils, since the ignitor lights flame, that eliminated them. I checked the 3 coils, all perfect, checked the flame sensor also perfect, scratched my head, prayed, tapped on the gas solenoid valves reassembled and it works normal again.
Thank you for the suggestions, I guess the LORD had mercy and fixed it for me 4 large loads ago.
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