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Brand: Kenmore Age: 1 - 5 years
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firemen213101  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 8, 2009 9:56:39 AM(UTC)
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I Have A Kenmore Dryer That Wont Heat And Its Electric And I Checkedthe Element I Need Help So I Can Order The Parts For The Weekend Please.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, April 8, 2009 10:39:53 AM(UTC)
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A Model Number may help others help you.

Have you checked that the unit is getting 240 volts?
Sometimes you can loose half the line so the motor will run because it uses 120 but the heater will not as it needs 240.

Could be the thermal fuse or one of the thermostats
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firemen213101  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, April 8, 2009 10:42:00 AM(UTC)
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Yes I Have And Each Leg Is Getting 120 For The 240 Total I Have It Up Top But Not At The Element
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firemen213101  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, April 8, 2009 10:43:35 AM(UTC)
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Could It Be Any Of The Sensors
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denman  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, April 8, 2009 11:11:22 AM(UTC)
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Sorry but without a Model Number, I do not know what sensors you are talking about. Many dryers do not have sensors.
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firemen213101  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, April 8, 2009 11:56:46 AM(UTC)
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model 110.60922990
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denman  
#7 Posted : Thursday, April 9, 2009 12:21:42 PM(UTC)
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I could not find any info on your unit.
Did find out it was made by Whirlpool
Check in the control console for the wiring diagram
Here is a good site with basic info
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html

Most unit have a heater thermal fuse. It is normally the upper one on the heater assembly..

If it is blown clean/check your vent system, the blower wheel and the drum seals. Sometimes they just blow but usually reduced air flow past the heating element is the cause.

Also when you checked the heater did you check from each connector to the case. Sometimes the heat coil can sag, touch the case and cause high heat in one area and this can blow the fuse.

Other thermostat are
High Limit Thermostat on the heater assembly
Cycling (control) Thermostat on the blower case
Thermal Fuse on the blower but it usually kills power to the motor

Hope this helps1
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firemen213101  
#8 Posted : Thursday, April 9, 2009 5:26:57 PM(UTC)
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I Found Out That The Thermal Cut Off Sensor Was Bad And I Replaced It And It Blew Again. What Could Be The Problem?
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misterfixall  
#9 Posted : Thursday, April 9, 2009 5:43:53 PM(UTC)
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perhaps there is a short in the heating element ,or the element is stretched and is touching casing when machine is running, remove heater +check, connect your multimeter on continuity from heater conector to casing if there is continuity replace heater,
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denman  
#10 Posted : Thursday, April 9, 2009 6:41:58 PM(UTC)
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Low air flow through the heater will blow the fuse.
Possible causes:
1. Dirty or inoperative vent system (outside louvers not opening).
2. Dirty or a loose blower wheel.
3. Bad drum seals or an air leak else where. You are actually sucking the air through the heater and pushing it out the exhaust so any air leak in the system will reduce the amount of air being sucked through the heater.
4. A clogged up lint filter or rear drum holes. This can happen if you use too much fabric softener. It leaves a coating which builds up over time. Clean with soap and water.

Thermostat problems
1. The cycling (control) thermostat contacts are welded together.
You can heat the face up with a soldering gun or place it on a stove element to heat it up and see if it opens.

Note: On many units the heaters thermqal fuse and the hi-limit thermostat are replaced as a set. If all was working properly the hi-limit should have opened before the fuse blew.

And of coarse what misterfixall replied.
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