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Icemaker quit filling with water. Valve is good. Replaced icemaker and it made about 3 trays and quit filling. Replaced icemaker again. Same issue. I can jump L and V test points and water flows. Voltage at L and N is 124V. I can jump T and H to start the cycle. Voltage is still 124V at L and N; however when it cycles around to close the contact for the water valve, I only get 94V at V and N. The valve will not operate at 94V. I cannot find why the voltage drops. Any ideas.
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Did you replace the ice maker together with the wire harness or just the ice maker?
What is the part number of the new ice maker?
Gene.
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It now makes some ice; but not much. Some of it is hollow. I have turned the fill adjustment almost a full turn CCW. Seems to fill sometimes and not others. It acts like the valve is working intermittently; but when I jumper it, it works perfectly every time.
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What is the exact measured temperature in the freezer?
Gene.
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Temp is not the problem. I just checked it there is almost no water in the tray. Next time I check it may be full. It doesn't seem to fill the same every time.
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Originally Posted by: jamosteve  Temp is not the problem. I just checked it there is almost no water in the tray. Next time I check it may be full. It doesn't seem to fill the same every time. Jamosteve, I'm going to take a stab at this and throw a few things for you to check. When you jump it out the valve should stay energized for approximately 7 to 7.5 seconds. I would check it at the valve itself if it were me. During that time you should be getting about 4.5 oz of water in a glass. If it's engergized for the right amount of time yet you're not getting enough water either the valve is acting up or the pressure to the valve from your house may be an issue. Especially if you're using one of those self piercing water valves under your sink. If it's not staying energized for that 7 seconds, that's going to be an IM problem, considering you've maxed out the water inlet adjustment. The 94 volt part is strange. That's coming from the IM head itself so it still sounds like it could be the IM. One more thing. May sound odd, but -5 if really cold. It's a wonder your not getting hollow cubes due to the IM short cycling. As in the t-stat in the IM is being satisfied before the ice is fully frozen.
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If 115 volts is applied to the icemaker water solenoid with a line cord, you should get "normal" water flow. When the icemaker sends voltage down to the solenoid, sometimes the voltage is reduced due to a burnt wire someplace in the fridg. I have seen this happen often. The problem is inside the fridg where it is impossible to fix.
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