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I have an old Do-It-Yourself repair manual that says to probe terminals Y (Yellow) and R (Red) to test continuity. The terminals I have are R (Red) BK (Black) BU (Blue) W (White) and V (Violet). What is the Y terminal? I have continuity between R and BK and R and BU, but not R and W or R and V.
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What are you trying to check? |
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The dryer won't start. I've checked everything I can get to - the push start switch, thermal fuses, door switch, and visually inspected the wiring. The switches and fuses tested positive for continuity.
When I first looked at the dryer, the console electronic board was fried so I replaced it, but it still doesn't start. Now I'm trying to figure out what has power and what doesn't. With the dryer plugged in, the timer set to "Timed Dry", and my digital meter set to AC, I see .021 volts between R and BK. I'm not even sure it's AC but I got 0 DC volts when tried.
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I checked the voltage again at the timer. From R, BK, and BU to ground I get 122 volts. I also get 122 V from those to W and V. But the timer is not moving as far as I can tell and there are no sounds. I'm not sure where to go from here. I wish I knew which wires to connect to try start the motor directly.
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I left the dryer plugged in for a short time and when I came back the timer had moved from 70 to 20. I moved it back to 60 and waited a few minutes. Then I saw something spinning in the small window of the round silver unit attached to the timer. Is this the pulser? Now it is making an erratic ticking sound.
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[COLOR="Blue"]Then I saw something spinning in the small window of the round silver unit attached to the timer. Is this the pulser?[/COLOR] No, that is the motor armature spinning. See the attachment for the tech sheet. Try to trace out the start circuit. Unplug the unit put the timer to mid cycle timed dry. Attach one meter lead to Neutral (white) and leave it there. Check to W at the door switch, should be 0 ohms. Next BU at the door switch, should be 0 ohms with the door closed. Next 5 M at the motor, should be 0 ohms. Next BU at the thermal fuse, both should be a couple ohms (Motor windings) Next BK at the push to start switch both should be a couple ohms when the switch is pressed. Next BU at the timer. This may get confusing as there looks like there is more than one BU on the timer. You want the one that goes to the BK/BU contracts. In the diagram it is the switch with the two dark periods/dots. This reading is also when the start is pushed. Should be a couple ohms. Next the BK at the timer same conditions as the above. Then BK at the terminal strip. |
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It's working now. It was the door switch. When I tested it before I must have tested the circuit for the light. Those are the OR(ange) and W(hite) wires and should have continuity when the door is open. For the dryer to run, I needed to jump the BU(blue) and W(hite) terminals. Of course, I didn't find this out until after I removed the drum to test the motor.
I spent most of my weekend on this and spent $150 in parts. And my wife already bought another dryer that we have to cancel/return. When the dryer came back to life, I almost cried tears of joy.
Thanks a lot denman for responding and for the Tech Sheet; it will be very helpful. I really appreciate it. Where can home owners like myself find these materials? This site has my business for future appliance parts. What's the # for the door switch?
I don't understand the second step in tracing the circuit - "Attach one meter lead to Neutral (white) and leave it there." Are you suggesting I start at the console?
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[COLOR="Blue"]Where can home owners like myself find these materials? [/COLOR] You pretty well have to Google the model number. I do not work for AppliancePartsPros but volunteer here as I think they do a great job hosting this forum. [COLOR="Blue"]What's the # for the door switch?[/COLOR] Here are your parts Replacement parts for Whirlpool WED5900SW0 29" Electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.comThe door switch is Item 10 in Section 2. Also if you click on the parts picture usually a new page will open with more info and perhaps a video and/or a Q&A section. [COLOR="Blue"] "Attach one meter lead to Neutral (white) and leave it there." Are you suggesting I start at the console?[/COLOR] Yes you could even attach it at the terminal strip or the Neutral on the line cord. Basically as far back as possible in the circuit. That way you are checking the complete circuit and once you find an open you can narrow in on that part. |
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Thanks for volunteering and for the part #.
Also, it is interesting that this thread started with testing the timer, which was misbehaving until I isolated the door switch. Now it seems fine. We've already run a couple of loads. I warned the fam' that they must turn the timer to the off position to stop the dryer because opening the door won't work until the new switch is in.
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