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darrellmac311  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:34:07 PM(UTC)
darrellmac311

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I have a frigidaire ftfb4000gs1. I ran the test for fault codes. I come up with a 23. which control board does this indicate? What is your part number for this board?
Thanks,
Darrell
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Simon / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Thursday, August 30, 2012 12:51:36 PM(UTC)
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Hi.

Code 23 refers to the main control board behind the control panel Part number: 137005000
Part number: 137005000


Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Frigidaire FTFB4000GS1 WASHER | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you.

Simon.
darrellmac311  
#3 Posted : Sunday, September 2, 2012 9:25:25 AM(UTC)
darrellmac311

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I purchased the board and installed it with no issue. Washer continues to do the same thing with the same error code.
Just so I am clear on the error code, once I start the diagnostic test I get a beep, at the same time the stack of LEDs for the Door lock, wash, rinse, final spin, control, blink and the start LED will blink once. Then it repeats the beep and all the lights that I mentioned before blink again. Then no beep and only the start light will blink once.
That should be fault code 23 correct?
So if that is correct what is the next step?
thanks,
Darrell
Gene  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, September 4, 2012 5:22:37 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: darrellmac311 Go to Quoted Post
...at the same time the stack of LEDs for the Door lock, wash, rinse, final spin, control, blink (once) and the start LED will blink once...
...That should be fault code 23 correct?...


Hi Darrell,

The first code digit once and then second code digit once correspond to the error code "E11" which means "Fill time too long". I don't know how did you get 23.

I'm assuming that you do have the tech sheet. Perform the test #1. Basically the problem can be an insufficient incoming water pressure, a bad water inlet valve or a bad pressure switch.

- The water inlet valve Part number: 134866600
Part number: 134866600



- The pressure switch Part number: 134844501
Part number: 134844501

Gene.
darrellmac311  
#5 Posted : Thursday, September 6, 2012 8:01:20 AM(UTC)
darrellmac311

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Hi Gene,
thanks for the help but I still think the error code is 23. I dont think I described it correctly though. Let me see if I can do a better job at that.
This is directly from the service manual.
"In the Good Models line, the control signals the failure code by flashing the five indicator lights of Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, Final Spin and Control for the first number or letter after the E and the Start indicator light for the second number or letter after the E. When a failure occurs, the washer stops or pauses and the control beeps and flashes the five indicator lights to tell the customer that a failure has occurred."

"If the washer is a Good Model, the five indicator lights of Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, Final Spin and Control will flash the number of times for the first digit of the code and the Start indicator light will flash the number of times for the second digit. Take separate counts of each indicator light, then repeat to confirm in order to be accurate in identifying the proper error code. The code is obtained by counting the number of times the lights flash.
Example E24: The five indicator lights would flash twice indicating the 2 and the Start indicator light will flash four times indicating the 4. The five indicator lights and the Start indicator light start flashing at the same time. The control will pause for 2 seconds, then repeat the code as long as the two buttons are pressed and held."

So when I run test one (or any test for that matter) I always get the same fault code. The stack of five LEDs will blink a total of 2 times and and Start LED will blink a total of 3 times. There is a pause of a few seconds or so and it repeats.

Does this still sound like an E11 or E23?

Additional information; When I run test 1. I can hear the water start to run in for a few seconds then the fault code starts blink. I did pull off the pressure switch and check continuity at the rest state and as I blow into it. I have continuity at the rest state and it opens when I blow into the switch. Also after running the test a number of times once the drum gets about 3 inches of water in it the water inlet will no longer open. I bail the water out of the drum and run the test again and it opened the water valve during the test. I believe this is telling me the pressure switch is working. Would you agree?

Thanks, any additional information would be fantastic.
Gene  
#6 Posted : Thursday, September 6, 2012 1:17:40 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Darrell,

The information you posted on 8/2:
Quote:
... once I start the diagnostic test I get a beep, at the same time the stack of LEDs for the Door lock, wash, rinse, final spin, control, blink and the start LED will blink once. Then it repeats the beep and all the lights that I mentioned before blink again. Then no beep and only the start light will blink once...
and the information you posted today:
Quote:
... when I run test one (or any test for that matter) I always get the same fault code. The stack of five LEDs will blink a total of 2 times and and Start LED will blink a total of 3 times. There is a pause of a few seconds or so and it repeats...
are very different and confusing.

If the real error code is "E23" then it points to a problem with the drain pump relay and/or drain pump itself. You may want to check the drain pump now. The normal resistance at the pump motor should be about 12 Ohms. Also verify 120 VAC to the pump motor when it should drain.

BTW, you never mentioned what was the original problem with the washer and did not describe what happened when you tried to use it.

- The drain pump Part number: 137108100
Part number: 137108100

Gene.
Simon / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Thursday, September 6, 2012 1:30:59 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

It's a wild shot - check the drain hoses for blockage.

Simon.
darrellmac311  
#8 Posted : Thursday, September 6, 2012 4:18:22 PM(UTC)
darrellmac311

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Gene,
the original problem: My wife had completed a few loads of laundry. She put another load in the washer and set the cycle then pushed the start button. The no spin light came on after a few seconds. I tried other cycles but all had the same result.

thanks for the advise I will check the pump motor next.

Also when I read the quotes you put in from my troubleshooting they sound the same to me but I was there when the stuff happened. I guess it's all in how one perceives it that is why I described it in a different manner. That's one of the great things about the world.

Simon,
I pulled the discard hose out the other day and checked it.
thanks though.
darrellmac311  
#9 Posted : Saturday, September 8, 2012 10:06:15 AM(UTC)
darrellmac311

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Yo Gene,
you are the man. The pump was open (no continuity). I found one on an other site that sounds **** for $40 new. I ordered it already and it's on the way but I also started to look at why the winding failed on the old pump. I discovered that the wire coming from the winding had broken at the spade. Looks to me that the cheap push on wire connection failed and it would have been much better with a solder connection.

Simon,
thanks for your help also.

Thanks again,
Darrell
Gene  
#10 Posted : Monday, September 10, 2012 5:36:59 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome Darrell. I'm glad you were able to find the problem. I hope the new pump will fix it.

Gene.
P.S. I understand that you saved money on the part but does it come with one year part warranty?
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