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Many dryers and other appliances I've fixed in my time...
This time, I come with my tail between my legs and my hands up in the air... I've tried everything. Here's the story:
Dryer would not heat. I took the top off, took the terminal strip cover off and made sure all connections are tight. With the unit apart I tested it and guess what?! It worked!!
I put the unit back together (replaced covers, etc.) put it back in it's location, tested it again and guess what this time... NOTHING! No heat.
Ok! So let's look at all the usual suspects... The cycling t-stat... continuity is fine, 120V on both sides... I check the other sensors... voltage and continuity appears to be as it should.
I pull the front, inspect the element. There appears to be two wires on the left side of the coil, these have continuity. The right side, the plug is on... not sure how to test it.
So... go let me have it... what should I be doing. I fully proficient with my meter. You give me the orders, and I'll execute them.
Pete
P.S. Yes, there is 120V on both sides of the terminal strip... ;)
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[COLOR="Blue"]P.S. Yes, there is 120V on both sides of the terminal strip[/COLOR]
But is there 240 volts between them?
Also do you have the wiring diagram for this unit.
If not it may be glued to the back of the unit or in the control console.
I doubt that I will be able to find it on-line. GE likes to keep all tech data a secret. |
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On the terminal strip there are three leads. The top lead is one pole @ 120V, the center lead is neutral (white) and the bottom lead is the second pole @ 120V. Not sure what you mean by "between them" I have checked this at the terminal strip as well as traced them to where they go to make sure there isn't a problem at the terminal strip -- I'm happy to test them again if you think I missed something. I have the diagram from inside the top rear of the unit in front of me. Let me know what you're thinking.
Thanks,
Pete
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Your house power is actually 2 120 volt supplies (black and red) that are 180 degrees out of phase when referenced to Neutral (white).
So when one supply is at positive 120 the other is at 120 negative so if you measure from black to red you should see 240 volts. This is the voltage used to power the heating element.
FYI: If lets say you loose one side of the line (black) and you check from neutral to red you will see 120 volts. But if you check the other side of the line neutral to black you will also see 120 volts but this is actually the red side of the line, it is just feeding through parts in the dryer so you can see it on both sides.
This of course depends on the dryer and where it's timer is set.
It is just easier and more reliable to check for the 240 volts (black to red) |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Your house power is actually 2 120 volt supplies (black and red) that are 180 degrees out of phase when referenced to Neutral (white).
So when one supply is at positive 120 the other is at 120 negative so if you measure from black to red you should see 240 volts. This is the voltage used to power the heating element.
FYI: If lets say you loose one side of the line (black) and you check from neutral to red you will see 120 volts. But if you check the other side of the line neutral to black you will also see 120 volts but this is actually the red side of the line, it is just feeding through parts in the dryer so you can see it on both sides.
This of course depends on the dryer and where it's timer is set.
It is just easier and more reliable to check for the 240 volts (black to red) Ok... I'm certain it'll be 240v... but I check when I get back to the house and report back. If anyone has any other ideas for me to check... PLEASE post up. I've NEVER had any trouble fixing dryers, washers, dishwashers... you name it... but this machine... just doesn't want to play ball... Thanks, Pete
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Just so I'm clear. You're saying that on a 3 prong 240v receptacle --
if you test Line1 & Neutral and get 120V
and
if you test Line2 & Neutral and get 120V
That it may still not be 240V?
Not trying to be a wise ass, but if each Line (1&2) is on it's own pole (bar in box) and each is reading 120V...
What am I missing?
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[COLOR="Blue"]What am I missing?[/COLOR]
You said that you checked the power at the terminal strip on the machine not the receptacle or the box when nothing is connected to it (across the lines). There is a difference because of how electricity (240) works.
Your heater runs off of 240 volts, neutral has nothing to do with the heating circuit.
The heater circuit is usually L1 (line 1) - a set of timer - some thermostats - heater coil - a centrifugal switch - L2 (line 2).
The circuit may also include a switch to select different heat settings.
Not quite sure how to explain this
If you use neutral as the reference and put 120 volts on one side of lets say a heating coil then you will also see the 120 volts on the other side of the heater but it is the same voltage as you read on the other side. If you measure across the heating coil you will see 0 volts.
I would just measure it so you can move on.
It is easier than tearing the unit apart just to find out later it was a power problem.
Also find the wiring diagram if you can other wise you will be guessing on how the unit is wired. |
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Understood. I'll check as you indicate. I do have the schematic, so that's no problem.
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