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So I have this old Sears Coldspot freezer. My guess is that it was built in the 70's. It's been running fine for months. But yesterday I could hear the relay clicking on and off. I checked on it an hour later and everything was running fine. This morning it was doing it again and I noticed that it was warming up inside the freezer. I unplugged the freezer and looked at the relay and overload protector. I noticed that the blade connectors were pretty corroded. So I replaced them and then plugged the freezer back in.  Then I started getting sparks coming from where the relay connects the the compressor. So I followed the test procedures on ACME HOW TO.comI checked the overload protector, and I have continuity between the terminals. I checked for continuity between the three compressor pins and the compressor housing, no continuity there. I checked for continuity between the three compressor pins and I have continuity. Here's where it gets weird. I followed the steps for testing the compressor on www.davesrepair.com and I'm not sure where or what ohm reading I should be getting. Here's a picture of the compressor pins.  Between 1 and 3 I get anywhere from 12 to 15 ohms Between 3 and 2 I get anywhere from 12 to 15 ohms Between 1 and 2 I never get a steady reading Does any of this seem right? I also tested the relay following the steps here. The S and M terminals had continuity in both rightside up and upside down positions. So it failed that portion of the test. I also did the S,M and L terminal test and it passed. I really hoping it's the relay. I don't want to replace this freezer. Your input would be greatly appreciated. -Chris
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Originally Posted by: ChristopherB 
...Between 1 and 3 I get anywhere from 12 to 15 ohms
Between 3 and 2 I get anywhere from 12 to 15 ohms
Between 1 and 2 I never get a steady reading... Hi Chris, What kind of meter did you use? Can you describe step by step how did you this test please? The model number you posted is incorrect or incomplete. Verify and repost it please. Gene.
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I used a Fluke mulimeter to test. Using my meter I tested between points 1 and 3,  then 3 and 2,  and then 1 and 2.  The model number is correct #198 710130. 
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Looks like the compressor motor is bad because these readings are incorrect. It may be because of rusted terminals. Try to clean them with a fine grit sandpaper (higher grit is better) and redo this test.
Gene.
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O K, I cleaned up the pins and took a new reading.
1 and 3 - 14.6 ohms
3 and 2 - 14.6 ohms
1 and 2 - 10.2 ohms
Oh, and the relay has a rattle sound when you shake it.
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The readings look not good. The normal reading suppose to be: between common to start should be more than between common to run and the reading between start and run should be equal to sum of two other readings.
It needs a new compressor.
Gene.
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Gene, thanks for all your help.
This is sad news.
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I have an old Sears Coldspot freezer that quit cooling on me Saturday. I don't have a digital meter but when I measure the ohms on the analog meter I have, the needle jumps all the way past zero, regardless of which pins I am measuring... Checked all pins to ground and get nothing... Does the prior mean that the compressor is fried?
Thanks
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Did you try to set your meter on different scales?
Gene.
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Actually, I only have the one scale. It is a cheap little meter but I figured since it jumps all the way past 0 just like connecting the two probes, it meant something was fried inside since it was supposed to have SOME value. I may get another meter and check if you think it would make a difference?
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