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I replaced the ice maker (though I used the existing wiring harness - was really stubborn to get out). it still doesn't seem to work. Last night I could trigger the water going into the mold by V & L, and then I waited for a while and ice was solid in the mold. But it still wasn't being ejected. I then jumpered T & H and it moved the arm around, broke the ice and dumped it into the tray, more water filled the mold. I went to bed. This morning I woke up, ice was solid in the mold, but no more cycles had been ran, no more ice was in the tray. Freezer temp is right around 0 F inside the freezer, so it should be plenty cold. I re-checked L & N, 120vac still present, but when I jumpered T & H this time no action. I also tried putting the jumper in closing the freezer door, unplugging the refrigerator for about 1 minute, then plugging it back in as per Whirlpool Icemaker Repair Guide. 15 seconds later I opened the door to check, no movement. So where am I now? Is it possible I have now a second dead icemaker? Or is there (more likely) something I've overlooked? Thanks for all the help so far!
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Make sure the ice maker shut off arm is properly inserted in the slot at the ice maker head and it is in the On (down) position.
I really recommend to use the wire harness which came with the new ice maker. It can be the culprit.
One of possibilities is a loose connection at the ice maker wire harness connection at the wall plug.
Gene.
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I have a whirlpool (gd5nvaxsa01) not making ice, the red light blinks twice then off... when I close the flap to make it like the door is closed the light stays off, does this show a faulty sensor or bad ice maker?
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I close the flipper on top, im assuming its a switch that closes a circuit to act like the door is closed, when i push it up the light bulb turns off and the red light stops blinking, it stays off....I was reading other post and they were saying that the light should stay on, wondering if this is what my model freezer should be doing as well?
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 Afinity washer - Removing the front panel and drain pump.doc (679kb) downloaded 2 time(s).Here is a pic of the power plug. Nothing I have tried so far has dislodged this thing. There is molded rubber / plastic surrounding the part that goes into the inside wall of the freezer. Also, I've noticed that the end of the new harness that would plug into the "wall" looks nothing like the original, and even the wiring order is different (black and white are transposed). Now, I realize that this shouldn't be a huge deal, black and white are the two legs of the AC and should work either way, but I'm starting to wonder if this is even the right harness for my refrigerator. Anyone have any tips on how to get this harness out? Should I just cut the plastic rubber bit off with an xacto? boingolover attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Hi.
You should replace the harness witch connects the icemaker to the disconnect plug right behind it. NOT the harness going trough the wall.
Use the flat screw driver to unlock the tabs and pull a part the plug.
Simon.
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boingolover,
Can you post a picture of the whole ice maker harness (from the freezer wall to the ice maker) please?
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: moreno  I close the flipper on top, im assuming its a switch that closes a circuit to act like the door is closed, when i push it up the light bulb turns off and the red light stops blinking, it stays off....I was reading other post and they were saying that the light should stay on, wondering if this is what my model freezer should be doing as well? The part you call "flipper" is actually the door (light) switch. The flipper which has to be closed to unblock the optic beam for this test is located on the left freezer wall and is shown as #25 at the diagram. Gene.
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Ok so when i close the flapper nothing changes with the infared reciever, it continues to blink twice, pause, then blink twice and pause again... Any ideas?
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