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Refrigerator Compressor relay - can it work sometimes and not others? Options  Email this topic  Watch this topic  Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: FRT21HS8KS	Brand: Frigidaire	Age: 5 - 10 years
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crossi2		#1 Posted : Sunday, July 15, 2012 9:22:11 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 7/14/2012(UTC) Posts: 6		Freezer and refrigerator cooling, but not getting cold enough. All coils clean, no frost, fans are running. Sometimes compressor runs immediately after plugging in, sometimes relay clicks and compressor does not come on. Suspect bad relay. Removed it and it rattles a little. Is it possible that the relay can work just some of the time? Could it be the capacitor? Or even the temperature control? Thanks! Charles
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richappy		#2 Posted : Monday, July 16, 2012 12:42:11 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		Yes, the start device could be intermittent, just order a new one AP3891852. If you have a meter, you could check it to verify.
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crossi2		#3 Posted : Monday, July 16, 2012 6:43:05 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 7/14/2012(UTC) Posts: 6		Originally Posted by: richappy Yes, the start device could be intermittent, just order a new one AP3891852. If you have a meter, you could check it to verify. Thanks for the fast reply RicHappy! I will order a new start device and try that first. Is the start device also sometimes called a relay? By the way what kind of meter do I need to test the relay? I have an old Micronta multimeter for testing current and resistance, but it's pretty primitive. Thanks, Charles
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richappy		#4 Posted : Monday, July 16, 2012 8:31:25 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		The start device has 3 output pins forming a triangle, check ohms between the bottom two, should be 5 to 10 ohms.
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crossi2		#5 Posted : Monday, July 16, 2012 9:53:48 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 7/14/2012(UTC) Posts: 6		Originally Posted by: richappy The start device has 3 output pins forming a triangle, check ohms between the bottom two, should be 5 to 10 ohms. Thanks again. I tested it and got no reading across any of the pins. I suppose it's bad!
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richappy		#6 Posted : Monday, July 16, 2012 12:26:36 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		Yes, blown open.
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crossi2		#7 Posted : Tuesday, July 17, 2012 6:36:10 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 7/14/2012(UTC) Posts: 6		Originally Posted by: richappy Yes, blown open. Well, I replaced the relay. The compressor still comes on about the same time, and the fridge and freezer are still not getting cold enough. Both stop around 58dF. Any ideas on the problem? Thank you, Charles
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richappy		#8 Posted : Wednesday, July 18, 2012 12:21:21 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		If you set the controls to the coldest setings and the compressor is vibrating and the condenser coils warm and still poor cooling, you have a bad compressor/refrigerant leak.
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crossi2		#9 Posted : Wednesday, July 18, 2012 8:01:15 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 7/14/2012(UTC) Posts: 6		Originally Posted by: richappy If you set the controls to the coldest setings and the compressor is vibrating and the condenser coils warm and still poor cooling, you have a bad compressor/refrigerant leak. The compressor is vibrating, and gets warm. The condenser coils don't seem to be very warm at all, however. These are the condenser coils, right?: http://www.steecos.com/additional/large/26245_lg.jpg
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richappy		#10 Posted : Wednesday, July 18, 2012 1:15:59 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		Well, that confirms a bad compressor.
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