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My maytag electric dryer runs but no heat. I have checked
electric plug - shows 246 volts
both thermostats - showing continuity
heating element - showing 12.9 ohms
what it could be??
I have unplugged heating element and check the input wires while running it shows 246 volts input to heating element. Please help...
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Originally Posted by: rajpat25  My maytag electric dryer runs but no heat. I have checked
electric plug - shows 246 volts
both thermostats - showing continuity
heating element - showing 12.9 ohms
what it could be??
I have unplugged heating element and check the input wires while running it shows 246 volts input to heating element. Please help... Just so I understand, you're saying that there's 246V at the heating element connector when running (with element unplugged)... and the element itself seems okay (12 ohms - not open). Can you measure voltage at the element with the element plugged in, and with the unit running? Either the 246V goes away, or a bad element. Do you have schematics?
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I do have schematics. what should I look for in it? I will try to measure voltage with the element plugged in and unit running as well. Thanks for reply..
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Hi. Well if the 246 volts is still present with the element plugged in, then it's a bad element. If the 246 goes away, then there's an overcurrent sensor that's being tripped, again, perhaps by a bad element. How old is the unit? Have you priced an element? I'm leaning towards a bad element, but sometimes the symptoms fool us. Thanks.
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I have to diagree a little with212058145
[COLOR="Blue"]Well if the 246 volts is still present with the element plugged in, then it's a bad element.[/COLOR]
This I agree with but it would be a very rare problem. Usually if an element goes open (breaks) it will burn out at the break. But rare does not mean impossible so I would check it.
[COLOR="Blue"] If the 246 goes away, then there's an overcurrent sensor that's being tripped, again, perhaps by a bad element.[/COLOR]
There really is no overcurrent sensor in the unit that I know of, I am not quite sure what 212058145 is referring to.
Here is what I think may be happening. If you have a set of contacts or a thermostat that has high resistance due to pitting or whatever in series with the element. Then you still see voltage across the element wires when it is disconnected. But as soon as you connect in the element all the voltage is dropped across the high resistance and you will get a low voltage across the element.
So if the first test brings no joy, unplug the unit and check the operating thermostat, hi-limit thermostat temperature selector switch and timer contacts L/H. All should be 0 ohms when in a heat cycle.
Be sure to disconnect at least one side of what you are checking this prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Another possibility is a bad connection in the heater circuit (may even be in the wall plug) that opens as soon as any real current passes through it. Again rare but then your problem is a strange one. |
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Originally Posted by: denman I have to diagree a little with212058145
[COLOR="Blue"]Well if the 246 volts is still present with the element plugged in, then it's a bad element.[/COLOR]
This I agree with but it would be a very rare problem. Usually if an element goes open (breaks) it will burn out at the break. But rare does not mean impossible so I would check it.
[COLOR="Blue"] If the 246 goes away, then there's an overcurrent sensor that's being tripped, again, perhaps by a bad element.[/COLOR]
There really is no overcurrent sensor in the unit that I know of, I am not quite sure what 212058145 is referring to.
Here is what I think may be happening. If you have a set of contacts or a thermostat that has high resistance due to pitting or whatever in series with the element. Then you still see voltage across the element wires when it is disconnected. But as soon as you connect in the element all the voltage is dropped across the high resistance and you will get a low voltage across the element.
So if the first test brings no joy, unplug the unit and check the operating thermostat, hi-limit thermostat temperature selector switch and timer contacts L/H. All should be 0 ohms when in a heat cycle.
Be sure to disconnect at least one side of what you are checking this prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Another possibility is a bad connection in the heater circuit (may even be in the wall plug) that opens as soon as any real current passes through it. Again rare but then your problem is a strange one. Hi. I don't have the schematics for the unit unfortunately, so I'm just trying to quickly eliminate the element OR determine that it is a bad - basically remove a variable from the equation. The symptoms sound a little strange to me too, if the voltage is present at the element, and the element doesn't heat up, then it's a bad element. If the voltage drops when the element is in the circuit, well then the problem is upstream a bit. I'd be tempted to test the element outside of the unit, again just to determine whether or not the element is bad, but I wouldn't necessarily ask someone else to try that. I still say measuring the voltage at the element (with the element plugged in) will provide a big clue to the solution.
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[COLOR="Blue"]212058145
I still say measuring the voltage at the element (with the element plugged in) will provide a big clue to the solution[/COLOR].
I agree with you.
If the element has 240 across it and does not heat up then the element must be toast. Would be weird but weird happens.
Also bench testing with 240 is not for a novice.
It is a good way to get hurt or scared badly when wires short out and you have a large arc and spark. |
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I am testing the thermostat ( 53-0771 ) gives me the following results:
1. If I measure it as is or put on the hard surface it shows 0 ohm which is good.
2. If I measure while touching the bottom round moving disc part ( where is says G1 and TOD ) or put on the soft surface like carpet ( so the bottom moving disc will be pressed a little bit ) it shows no continuity. Is this the way it should be? or my thermostat is bad?
Should I try running the unit connecting two wires directly without thermostat just to see if it is heating or not?
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