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I am out of town now and won't be able to check this until Thursday evening, but just to make sure I understand, I would do the following: > close door and turn on off switch to "on" position > disconnect both the black wire and white/red wire connections from the control panel > check voltage between the black wire and the white/red wire
Thanks for your help. Tim
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I think i was able to do the correct test. I set my meter such that it was registering 120 at an outlet. There are five connections to the on-off switch and my results were as follows.
Red/White - 40 to black White - 75 to black black Single white - 40 to black Double white - 40 to black
I am not sure how to interpret those results. Do they tell you anything?
Thanks, Tim
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Originally Posted by: tmueller1212 I think i was able to do the correct test. I set my meter such that it was registering 120 at an outlet. There are five connections to the on-off switch and my results were as follows.
Red/White - 40 to black White - 75 to black black Single white - 40 to black Double white - 40 to black
I am not sure how to interpret those results. Do they tell you anything?
Thanks, Tim There is no proper power to the control module. Remove the wires from the "on-off" switch. Check the voltage between the incoming white and black wires. Check for continuity between the terminals 1 & 2, 3 & 4 and 5 & 6 on the switch while the switch in "on" position.Post the results. Gene.
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Removed the wires from the "on-off" switch.
Voltage between the incoming white and black wires = 75V
Check for continuity between the terminals on the switch, with the wires disconnected and while the switch is in the "on" position:
1 & 2 = full continuity 3 & 4 = full continuity 5 & 6 = no continuity
I got the same results on the new switch on the machine which I purchased initially in trying to fix this problem, and the old switch.
Thanks, Tim
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Originally Posted by: tmueller1212 ...Voltage between the incoming white and black wires = [COLOR="Red"]75V[/COLOR]... Tim, The problem is outside the dishwasher or at the power cord connection to the dishwasher. Gene.
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Gene: You are correct, and I am not too bright. Should have checked that connection in the very beginning, but was thrown off because there was power to the switch still. The connection between the dishwasher and power had some sort of short in it and had gradually melted the wires, somehow without throwing the breaker or immediately shutting down the dishwasher. As soon as I removed the bottom panel it was obvious.
Thanks so much for all your help. Sorry I was such a dimwit.
Tim
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You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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I had power to the switch on the hot lead but the neutral wire was broken inside the harness at the bottom of the door probably from opening and closing the door. Check that. It happens on many Bosch
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