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The new spring has a blue tip. the lh spring(which i did not replace) does not have any markings on the tip.
does that tell you anything?
Removing the lh spring does seem to reduce the recoil tension. so its definitely not busted maybe just off spec. any idea what the door on my unit should weigh. i am considering the possibility that the previous owner of the house might have replaced the door witdoor that is non-OEM door that is heavier than the original
i did upload a couple of videos? wondering if that tells you anything
thanks for the reply
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Originally Posted by: jaywalker1981  ...so its definitely not busted maybe just off spec...
...any idea what the door on my unit should weigh...
...i am considering the possibility that the previous owner of the house might have replaced the door witdoor that is non-OEM door that is heavier than the original... It maybe. I have no clue. Never thought about it. How he could do it and why? And nobody makes after market doors because nobody needs them. You may want to replace the second spring as well. Gene.
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Hi,
I ordered the second spring but unfortunately its on backorder for the last 10 days. At this point I am wondering if its worth waiting for the spring. or am I better off putting the microwave back in its place. What would really help me is to see a proper working door in operation(while opening and closing)
I have searched everywhere but have not been able to find a video of the microwave door (with springs intact). Would really appreciate it if somebody could make a video and of the door being closed and opened(does the door seem to fall when opening? do the springs "suck" the door in when closing?)
Thanks in advance.
Omer
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Originally Posted by: jaywalker1981 ...do the springs "suck" the door in when closing?... Hi Omer, No, it does not. Basically those springs just preventing the door from falling down too fast. Gene.
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Hi, Replaced both springs on the door. However there is hardly any difference between when the RH spring was busted and now(even though I have replaced both springs). Without attaching the SS door I see that there is considerable tension in the glass door. But once I attach the SS door the door just falls through. I uploaded a video on youtube. Can somebody please take a look and tell me if this is normal? The link is: Micro door - YouTube
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I did watch the video and this is definitely is not normal but I can not tell why it's doing that without seeing the unit. You probably have to hire a pro who knows these microwaves.
Gene.
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Hi Gene, First of all I really appreciate you taking the time to go over my emails. As much as my patience is wearing low I want to take care of this myself(really low on budget :( ). Here are the part numbers that I used: 4452395 for LH and 4452396 for the RH. Here is the link to the video with the heavy SS door attached. Micro without door - YouTubeAs you can see there is a considerable tension in the springs(obviously not enough to support the SS door). I also uploaded the photo of the LH original spring(dark brown/black). THe one I got as a replacement looks like stainless steel. One thing that is interesting to me is that the RH spring seems to be of the slightly wrong dimension. Notice how it is slightly sticking out(pointing with the red arrow). jaywalker1981 attached the following image(s):
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Hi. Your model # KEMC308KSS01 shows the Lt. hand side is part # Part number: AP3137553
with the No color tip. 49.5 - 54.5 lbs torque. Size: 3.50 inches long. For the Rt. hand side order Part number: AP3082257
Blue color tip. 49.5 - 54.5 lbs torque. Size: 3.95 inches long.
Suggestion- try to reverse the spring placement as which one is in front of the other. Were there any rubber tension clips wrapped around the origional springs ? That may have been placed where they crisscross each other to ease tension reaction. None are shown on the parts breakdown. You may have gotten a old batch of parts and need new parts ordered. The lt. side shows no color tip as the Rt. side shows the blue color tip. Make sure the rt. side has the blue tip.
Whirlpool Policy is to replace both at the same time. Tape or wire tie the springs in the center. Use the Stainless steel springs on all models. The stainless doors are heavy and once you get them approx. 20° opened, they will automatically try to fall open since they are past the natural pivot point. Thank You.
Originally Posted by: jaywalker1981 First of all thanks for everybody that has contributed to this thread. Without the information I would never have ventured changing the springs myself. I feel I am just a few days shy of not fretting for my microwave when my guests are over :). I just replaced the RH spring(used part number 4452396). The LH spring was still intact so I did not replace it. However the door still falls with the weight of the stainless steel door. If I dont attach the stainless steel door the spring "vehemently" pushes the glass/plastic door back but as soon as i attach the stainless steel exterior to the door it feels as if the springs are not even there. Any idea whats going on here? Is it possible that the LH spring is not a spec spring? My micro/oven combo model is KEMC308KSS0 Video of the door with the stainless steel exterior attached is here. Video without the stainless steel door is here.
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Hi Ted, Yes I have the parts you listed. Infact they are the same parts that I have been using. I got a new LH spring because the door kept falling and installed new springs for both LH and RH side. Got a new RH spring ordered and that has the same problem. There is a difference that I have noticed between the LH and the RH spring. the LH spring lines up perfectly on both sides. Refer to the image. Now if you look at the RH spring, one of the sides(the right side) is resting on the metallic hinge. I have pointed this by two arrows(this is when the Left side of the RH spring is lined with the hole). The only way I can force the RH spring in is by manually(with my hands) twisting the spring while hammering(with a mallet) the other side to squeeze it in. Notice that I have already imparted some torque to the spring to get it into place. As a result the residual torque is less than required to slow the door down when opened. It's just a theory. Would love to hear from you guys. jaywalker1981 attached the following image(s):
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Hi. Try this.... Re-insert the Rt. torsion spring first with the left side of the spring being threaded through the front hole on the rt. side hinge. Then invert the hook and place it into the rt. hinge rear hole. Then set the lt. spring side end in where it needs to be properly. See your previous Lt. spring pictures for reference as it seems proper (the one with the blue spring end). Then use a wire tie in the middle of the 2-springs where they cross one another. If the issue was not there before, then carefully look at each step to see if something is being overlooked. We understand (deeply) that this is frustrating at best for a seasoned technician as well. Thank You. Originally Posted by: jaywalker1981 Hi Ted,
Yes I have the parts you listed. Infact they are the same parts that I have been using. I got a new LH spring because the door kept falling and installed new springs for both LH and RH side. Got a new RH spring ordered and that has the same problem.
There is a difference that I have noticed between the LH and the RH spring. the LH spring lines up perfectly on both sides. Refer to the image. Now if you look at the RH spring, one of the sides(the right side) is resting on the metallic hinge. I have pointed this by two arrows(this is when the Left side of the RH spring is lined with the hole).
The only way I can force the RH spring in is by manually(with my hands) twisting the spring while hammering(with a mallet) the other side to squeeze it in. Notice that I have already imparted some torque to the spring to get it into place. As a result the residual torque is less than required to slow the door down when opened. It's just a theory.
Would love to hear from you guys.
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