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GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement. Options Email this topic Watch this topic Print this topic » Normal Threaded
	Brand: GE	Age: Less than 1 year
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Gene		#161 Posted : Tuesday, May 29, 2012 2:28:58 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)		Originally Posted by: mbrahmer ...fan over evap not running... Did the compressor run at that time? If it did not then it's normal. If the compressor was On, replace the evaporator fan motor and the main control board. It's recommended by GE to replace both of them. Inspect the fan motor plug for the thermistor harness. If the thermistor is wired into the plug then the evaporator motor Part number: WR60X10074 If it does not have a thermistor wired into it then the evaporator motor Part number: WR60X10185 The main control board Part number: WR55X10942 Gene.


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mbrahmer		#162 Posted : Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:45:09 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 5/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 14		Thanks Gene. I just ordered the parts! Also found the RMA for the FF fan I ordered by mistake. Thank you! Mark


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Gene		#163 Posted : Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:59:53 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)		You are welcome Mark. Keep us posted. Gene.


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bubbahotep		#164 Posted : Sunday, August 5, 2012 11:00:41 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 7/17/2012(UTC) Posts: 3		Does anyone have an idea what the sustained amp draw of a good evaporator motor is? I was thinking of adding an inline fuse to keep a stalled motor from burning out another motherboard. Any suggestion on fuse speed type would be great too.


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richappy		#165 Posted : Monday, August 6, 2012 12:24:01 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		I once designed an electronic circuit breaker,but it had to be re-set manually. Not a good idea as you still would loose cooling and have spoiled food. Best idea is to prevent the motor from running out of oil by drilling holes in the bottom enbell and adding oil to the lower bearing, then sealing it up. Adding oil to the top of the motor is not advised as it may gum up the armature.


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bubbahotep		#166 Posted : Monday, September 10, 2012 10:45:45 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 7/17/2012(UTC) Posts: 3		I still want to try and put a fuse in. Do you have any idea what amp rating/fuse type to get? If it fails I have a 2nd overflow fridge to move stuff into that is usually 1/2 empty.


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gtiphil		#167 Posted : Monday, October 8, 2012 5:44:10 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC) Posts: 10		I need some help please. I have a GE PSS29NGPABB that no longer cools either the FF or Freezer side. All the lights still work. All the controls seem to work (they just dont produce results). The water dispenser works. The fan at the bottom back of the unit under the panel (condenser fan?) works and the fan inside the Freezer turns on and off when you open or close either door. I have tried unplugging the unit for an hour and plugging it back in and no change. I did clean off a fair amount of dust from under the unit and the coils near the fan at the bottom back of the unit. Any suggestions?


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Gene		#168 Posted : Tuesday, October 9, 2012 12:18:42 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)		Does the compressor run? You should feel a vibration on a touch if it does. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for GE PSS29NGPABB Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com Gene.


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gtiphil		#169 Posted : Tuesday, October 9, 2012 6:00:50 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC) Posts: 10		The compressor is not running.


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Gene		#170 Posted : Wednesday, October 10, 2012 12:38:07 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)		Unplug the refrigerator. Pull it out of the wall. Remove the cover from the main control board. Remove the wire from the J8 terminal at the control board. Plug the fridge back and measure the voltage between the J8 terminal and the wire connected to the J7-9 (neutral) pin. The fan next to the compressor should run at that time. The normal reading suppose to be about 120 VAC. If the reading is incorrect, replace the main control board. If the reading is correct, post the result and we'll proceed further. - The main control board Part number: WR55X10942 Gene.


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