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I emailed in my problem about the Maytag dryer that had been running loudly for the last 6 months or so. Last week it went cold while running. Kept running though. When my wife opened it and then shut the door, it didn't restart. Email response was possibly a thermostat. I ordered the thermostat kit and installed it. Still doesn't start. What's next on the trouble shoot list for me? Timer switch?
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for Maytag PYE2300AYW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.comI am assuming that you replaced the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 5) First I would check the power to the unit. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Do this with the heater off and on. [COLOR="Red"] Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR] Next would be the door switch. Then the start switch. Then timer contacts L/M. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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I started to wonder if it was a power supply issue. Not sure if I should be thankful to be able to type, but I think I pulled a major no-no when it comes to tinkering. I am always careful to unplug the machine before touching anything inside it. However, after replacing the thermostat, I plugged it in to give it a try. When it didn't work I unplugged it and plugged it back in to try a couple other things. Then, I removed the new thermostats to reinsert the old ones...without unplugging it. Should I have been zapped or is there no power to those when the machine isn't running? Anyway, I read a couple threads where the dryer makes a clicking noise when the breakers are switched on and off. My dryer does nothing. No clicking or anything. I have switched the breaker on and off several times. But I have not tested the outlet or the power cord. I will look into your suggestions. And yes, I replaced the thermal fuse. Also, when replacing the thermal fuse, I found the bottom row of coils was dangling down. Not sure if that caused some problems.Thanks.
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Should I have been zapped or is there no power to those when the machine isn't running?[/COLOR]
You got lucky. One side of the heater circuit is connected to the motor's centrifugal switch so should be disconnected when the unit os off.
The other side is connected through timer contacts so i assume that the timer was at off.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
Also, when replacing the thermal fuse, I found the bottom row of coils was dangling down.[/COLOR]
It could. If the heating coil touches the frame then it can run and the thermostats cannot control it so it blows the thermal fuse. |
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Outlet tested out fine. Followed cord into dryer. The top lead was burned completely off. Any idea what would cause it to burn out? I noticed that the top lead wasn't bolted down tightly. I'm not an electrician but I'm guessing it was an arc that eventually got too hot and burned it up.
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]I'm not an electrician but I'm guessing it was an arc that eventually got too hot and burned it up.[/COLOR]
I agree with you. A bad connection acts as a resistor as current passes through it, it heats up which further degrades the connection and so on and so on till the connection fails.
Make sure to clean up the connection and if you have to cut the wire back till you get to nice clean copper.
PS. Glad to hear that you found it. |
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I have a similar problem, the dryer won't start and the light doesn't come on.
I have tested the thermal fuse, the door switch, and the power from the outlet and at the terminal block inside the back of the dryer.
Everything I have tested checks good.
I read where you posted to test the timer, how do I test that?
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Joe5896 is your model number the same as the original poster as I have to find a wiring diagram for your unit. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Joe5896 is your model number the same as the original poster as I have to find a wiring diagram for your unit. No, I'm sorry I just realized it was a different model. Mine is PYET444AYW Revision #15
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Rank: Advanced Member
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