Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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My gas broiler does not work. I changed the ignitor - still not working. With the broiler set to "on" I attached one probe from my multimeter to the wire that runs from the thermostat to the ignitor and the other probe to the wire that runs from the ignitor to the dual valve (essentially replacing the ignitor with the meter)I get no reading. If I attach one probe to the wire that runs from the thermostat to the ignitor and then ground the other lead from the meter on the oven frame it registers 125v. The wire that runs form the ignitor to the dual valve appears to be in good condition. The oven works fine. The thermostat has two wires - one to the broiler ignitor and another to the oven ignitor. A wire runs from each ignitor to the dual valve (oven & broiler).Any suggestions?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,429
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Ok, Goodrich or Goodyear, who has the blimp? LOL!!!! No seriously, Let's do this. Unplug the oven, and put your meter on ohms, and go to the dual valve. There should be 2 terminals for the broil, and 2 for the bake. Take the 2 wires of the valveside that goes to the broil, and check for continuity. If you don't get continuity the valve would be bad. If you get a reading, and the ignitor that you put in, is good, you would then have a control problem. Tom
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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What is "continuity". Also, can I check this without unplugging the range - it weighs about 300lbs and there is no way I can pull it out from the wall to unplug it.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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I was able to unplug the range. There is no continuity on the broil side of the valve. The bake side does show continuity. Does this mean I need a new dual valve?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,429
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that is correct. that means that the broil ignitor won't get power. you got it!!!!!!! tom
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