Both freezer and fridge stopped cooling suddenly. no ice on coils. fans are running, lights work. i've read about the adaptive control board and see there is a way to test it by jumpering two points forcing it to go from compressor mode to defrost mode. i am hoping there is a way to test it to go from defrost to compressor mode, since the compressor is not running. do the fridge and freezer have separate thermostats... if so, the thermostat(s) are not the culprits since both compartments stopped cooling at the same time. any other culprits if the board is not the problem??

gene - thank you. finally got to checking your suggestion today.. .i removed the start device, but no rattle :-(. i check the two wires going into it and it showed 117V (close enough to 120 i guess). both fans run but neither the fridge or the freezer is cooling. is it a bad compressor or could it still be the start device even though it didn't rattle? is there a way to test the compressor?

my posts are infrequent because i only have time to work on the fridge on weekends.... so i replaced the start device, even though the old one didn't rattle. when it was out i measured the run winding at 3.3ohms, but the start winding was closer to 5ohms than the specified 4.2... but i'm not sure if my reading was accurate. i also measured 8.3ohms between run and start. o shorts between any pin and the compressor. but i am still not getting cooling in either the fridge or freezer and both fans are running. what do i do next?

i replaced the start device. it was not the problem.

here is the original post"

"Both freezer and fridge stopped cooling suddenly. no ice on coils. fans are running, lights work. i've read about the adaptive control board and see there is a way to test it by jumpering two points forcing it to go from compressor mode to defrost mode. i am hoping there is a way to test it to go from defrost to compressor mode, since the compressor is not running. also, do the fridge and freezer have separate thermostats... if so, the thermostat(s) are not the culprits since both compartments stopped cooling at the same time. any other culprits if the board is not the problem??"

here's why i think it may not be a compressor problem: even though the compressor is not running, i measure 120VAC at the input and, when the connector is removed, the start windings are at 4.2 Ohm, the run windings are at 3.3 Ohms, there is 8.3 ohms between run and start and there is no short between the pins and the compressor body.

doesn't it make sense that the defrost control board could be forcing a continuous defrost? if that is the case, it would turn the compressor off but keep the fans running, right? is there a way to jumper the board to force the compressor on? if so, then i can determine if my compressor is good or not.

does anyone out there know enough about the defrost control board to help me with this?

RPP

Gene - thank you for your help. I was hoping it was not the compressor since i don't have the skill to replace it and with the cost of doing so, i may as well replace the fridge. it was a maytag and only 3 years old (i don't believe in buying warranties).

per your last note, how does the defrost cycle get the warmer air circulated if the fans are not on?

in any event, your help is hgihly appreciated. i will buy a new fridge today. probably either an LG or a GE.

cheers!

RPP