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When my heating element stopped working I found that there was no continuity in the dryer thermal fuse. At least I think it was the thermal fuse (It was located on the back side of the heating element right in the middle). I replaced it with part #AP4048636 and that fixed it. However, my dryer stopped blowing hot air after two loads so I had a new piece shipped to me and I tried it again. This time it stopped working after one load. Could I have ordered the wrong part? Please reply.
Thanks,
Kevin
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Hi Kevin, The part you ordered is the correct part, but looks like you did not fix a cause of this problem. The dryer is definitely overheats. The first thing I would do in such situation is disassemble the dryer and check the blower wheel. Make sure it does not slip on the motor shaft. Clean the dryer inside and the dryer vents outside the dryer. If the vent goes on top of the roof, you have to call a company which does vents cleaning, to do it for you because it needs a special equipment. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Amana LEA30AW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for the reply. I checked the blower wheel and it is secure and working fine. The vents are also clean and air blows strong at the outside vent. Could the problem be something else?
Thanks,
Kevin:confused:
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Hi Kevin, It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the high limit thermostat (#8 at the diagram) if the thermal fuse is open. Check the heater for a shortage to the ground. - The high limit thermostat Part number: W10116735
Gene.
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Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.
The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.
Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut) |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for replying. The high limit thermostat that is in my dryer is the original one. Is the manufacturer suggesting that it's not compatible with the new thermal fuse that I keep replacing?
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Originally Posted by: kpp  ...Is the manufacturer suggesting that it's not compatible with the new thermal fuse that I keep replacing?... No, it just doesn't do it's job. Denman explained in his post how it works. Did you check the heater? Gene.
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Gene,
You were right. The problem was the venting. The dryer air duct assembly wasn't on tight enough. There was a 3/4 inch gap. Heating element works fine now.
Thanks for all the help,
Kevin
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You are welcome Kevin. We're glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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