What was that reading (B to A)?
You said earlier "Checked all of these from TB, they all gave me around 1900-1800 ohms."
It should be 0 ohms.
If you look at the timing chart it shows when A-B should be closed.

The 0 ohms makes more sense as that is what it should be.

Attach/tape one meter lead to L1 (TB) and leave it there.
Set your meter to it's most sensitive scale usually 200 ohms.
I would set the unit to mid cycle, timed dry, high heat.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
One thing to be careful of is that you do not measure the internal heaters in the thermostats as they will show an open (infinite ohms) at this meter scale. All that matters is the thermostat's contacts.
If everything checks out OK all the way to the Purple (common) on the right hand side of the heating elements then odds are that there is something wrong with the centrifugal switch on the motor.

The way this switch is supposed to work is that it closes when the motor gets close to operating speed. This ensures that the heater does not come on until there is air flow.

Here are your parts.
Replacement parts for General Electric DBSR463EG6WW ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

The centrifugal switch is part of the motor (Item 630 in Section 1)
If you click on the part's picture a new page will open with more views and info.

The centrifugal switch is actually 2 switches.
One switch looks like M% and M6 on the wiring diagram disconnects the start winding which would cause the motor to overheat if left in circuit. It also closes a a circuit so that you can let go of the start switch and the unit keeps running.

Since you can let go of the start and it keeps running we can assume that the mechanical parts in the motor that close the switches is OK.

The other switch switches in the heater circuit. It's wires are usually a heavier gauge then the rest, looks like Black and Purple.
There is a way to confirm it is the culprit.
Unplug the unit and the wires at the switch and then short them together.
Tape them up so they cannot short to any thing else or get caught in the motor.
Plug the unit in if you have heat then you know the switch is toast.

Do not let it run for very long like this as you will not have air flow over the heating coils so it will blow the thermal fuse (safety thermostat)

Unfortunately no.
630 is the correct number, you cannot just buy the switch. You have to replace the motor.

And I agree with you at over $200.00 it really is not worth replacing.

Just checked what you said about taping the Black and purple wire together and running the dryer. There was heat coming out, so that would mean I would have to replace the motor switch. Which means the entire motor?