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Dryer never a problem. Now it stopped in mid-cycle. The circuit switch did not trip. Nothing turns on. No light. Moved to different cycles. Cleaned heating element of lint. Checked connections to dials. Vent & lint tube are clean. The timer is clicking when I move the dial to different cycles. Any suggestions? Just bought washer & dishwasher recently...don't need another big expense. Thank you for your help. JMC
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Admiral dryer stopped in mid-cycle
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A model number may help others help you.
Many units have a thermal fuse on the blower assembly.
If this is blown replace it ASAP as it is a critical safety device.
The most common cause of it blowing is a dirty vent system. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  A model number may help others help you.
Many units have a thermal fuse on the blower assembly.
If this is blown replace it ASAP as it is a critical safety device.
The most common cause of it blowing is a dirty vent system. Thank you. Model is LNC7766B71. I changed the thermostat near the heating element under the top panel. Nothing happened. On this model, can you reach the thermal fuse from the back panel or do you have to go thru the front &take out the tub, etc. Thank you for your assistance. JMC
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Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.c...el.aspx?model_id=5170322You may have replaced the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 4) as there are two on the heater, the fuse and the hi-limit. If the unit has a drum light and it still works then the thermal fuse is OK. Did you check the part you replaced with a meter? If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Originally Posted by: denman Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram Replacement parts for Admiral LNC7766B71 DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.comYou may have replaced the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 4) as there are two on the heater, the fuse and the hi-limit. If the unit has a drum light and it still works then the thermal fuse is OK. Did you check the part you replaced with a meter? If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. ============================= Thank you for your expertise. I did buy the thermostat kit & replaced #3 on the diagram the hi-limit & nothing happened. I did not see # 5 Is this for the other 2 small rounds fuses that came in the kit? I am going to buy a meter now & see if the door switch is good. I found the cycling fuse near the blower but would this shut down the power if it's bad? Thank you for all your help...(after 3 days my wife is telling me to buy a new dryer.)
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]I did not see # 5 Is this for the other 2 small rounds fuses that came in the kit?[/COLOR]
Yes. They are thermal fuses (cut-outs). One is for a gas dryer the other is for electrical dryers.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]I found the cycling fuse near the blower but would this shut down the power if it's bad?[/COLOR]
No it only controls the heating coil.
It can cause your problem if it's contacts weld together. The heat is then controlled by the high limit thermostat. You would notice that the heat is not controllable (no low heat). The hi-limit is just a safety so it's contacts are not made to continually open/close. Eventually they weld together and then the thermal fuse blows. |
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Originally Posted by: denman I did not see # 5 Is this for the other 2 small rounds fuses that came in the kit?
Yes. They are thermal fuses (cut-outs). One is for a gas dryer the other is for electrical dryers.
I found the cycling fuse near the blower but would this shut down the power if it's bad?
No it only controls the heating coil.
It can cause your problem if it's contacts weld together. The heat is then controlled by the high limit thermostat. You would notice that the heat is not controllable (no low heat). The hi-limit is just a safety so it's contacts are not made to continually open/close. Eventually they weld together and then the thermal fuse blows. ========== Dear Denman, I finally found the thermal fuse, behind the drum, down the side, below the heating element. It Works !! It took a while to release it & then squeeze my hand behind th drum & get the metal plate back in place. Thank you for all your help...I really appreciate it ! This was a real mechanical lesson for me & you are an expert. Thanks again. JMC
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You are welcome.
I would run the dryer on low heat to see if it actually does lower the heat.
If not there is still be a problem in the unit.
Glad to hear you are up and running.
My wife also has the attitude that if it is old replace it.
We have been married over 40 years but she has not mentioned replacing that once.
I just cannot figure out the selective logic.
Have a good one
denman |
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