Since there were no ideas I tore into it again. I figured that the fingers weren't supposed to be pointing down as they would freeze in the middle of the cubes so I removed the cover on the left side and found the wheel that states "do not turn manually". I removed that plate and them removed the motor. I turned the mechanism until the 2 pieces clicked together assuming that would be the end of a cycle. I put it all back together and reinstalled it in the freezer. Shortly after that the fingers started rotating and just kept turning. Still no water went into the ice maker. I thought maybe the freezer wasn't cold enough since I had the door open for a while so I left it overnight. this morning it was no longer rotating and still no water going into the tray. I manually filled it with water which of course froze but never ejected.

Now any ideas?

Ordered a brand new ice maker and still have the same problems. Putting the jumper in does not start a cycle and no water goes into the ice maker. I tried testing the voltage between T and N and it shows nothing. I removed the ice maker and tested all four wires (wasn't sure which one it would be) and registered nothing. The part that confuses me is that during my toubleshooting before it did cycle a few times. Should I see the voltage from the plug that the ice maker connects to?

So, in summary, we have three parts that may or may be the culprit. The LED electronics (which I reckon are to cycle the solenoid?). The electronics in the ice maker (one Printed Circuit Board) and the solenoid itself. My guess you have taken everything apart by now and realize that a gear didn't break and that structurally everything is intact.

My problem is the water comes through the door but the icemaker won't make ice. I cleaned out the bottom (compressor/fan/radiator ... very dusty) at one point and the icemaker made ice but then a month later it pretty much stopped making ice again.

I don't know if it is the solenoid or the ice maker. The ice maker is about $122 here or the aftermarket ones are about 1/2 that. The solenoid is a lot less expensive to repair, but, might actually be harder to install.

I realize there are a few test openings to make the unit cycle, short, etc.

My question is --- and I don't know if this is the right thread or not but it looked current --- how do I definitively know whether it is the solenoid or if it is the ice maker that is faulty? I guess for under 100 I could get both, and that might make work.

That's really about it. I make the ice manually now, and, I've don't that before. Not really so bad. And I throw it in the dispenser so it still comes through the door.

As for testing the icemaker I took out my little 120/240volt checker and inserted into appropriate holes. No voltage registered. I tried the manual cycle jumpers, nothing happened there either. But again, I took apart the entire unit and saw nothing leading me to believe the icemaker PCB is defective, other than it don't work no more.

Cheers.