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GE electric dryer has stopped heating. Motor runs and blows air out of the vent, but there is no heat at all. Tried every setting and nothing.
Checked the voltage to the dryer, running 240 and 120 V, breakers are good.
Checked the vent and no obstructions. Checked the heating element, it is good. Checked all the thermostats, they are all good. Checked the timer and heat selector, they are good.
Anyone have any ideas? About ready to just get a new dryer.
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Checked the voltage to the dryer, running 240 and 120 V, breakers are good[/COLOR]
Did you check the voltage at the dryer's terminal strip?
It is not unheard of for a line cord or terminal strip to go bad.
Do you have the wiring diagram for it.
If not it may be in the control console.
GE likes to keep all tech info a secret so getting a wiring diagram is difficult. |
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Yes, that is how I checked the voltages coming to the dryer. Checked it for 240V and 120V twice.
Anything else?
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What you really need is the wiring diagram. Here is a good site with general info http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.htmlGo to #5 GE and then #28 sample wiring diagrams perhaps one of them on that page will help you trace the heater circuit to find the open. |
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I have the wiring diagram. It was inside of the dryer.
It says to check the resistance between the heater and the cabinet. I have not done that, but checked it in another way. Just between the ends of the heating element with no wires attached to it and it was 0 ohms.
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The heating element should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Some units use 2 elements then they are up around 20 ohms.
You may be using too high of a meter scale.
Could you scan the wiring diagram and insert the image in a reply. |
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I have attached the wiring diagram. If it is hard to read, here is an url to a better picture.  Thanks crisjm attached the following image(s):
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Should be able to find the open.
Set the unit to cottons (high heat) mid scale.
Attach one meter lead to L! at the line cord or TB at the timer and leave it there.
Use the most sensitive meter scale usually 200 ohms. Short the leads together before starting in case there is a zero off set
The following test points should all give 0 ohms
Timer TA
15 and 16 on the Selector Switch
Both sides of the Safety Thermostat Left
Both sides of the Drum Outlet thermostat
Both sides of the Control Inlet thermostat
The above 2 thermostats have 4 wires two are the contacts with the other two are for an internal heater.
If all the above are OK check to the common on the heater (right side on the diagram), it should be about 11 ohms.
If all OK then either the centrifugal switch is toast 0r a bad connection from the heater to L2. |
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Timer TA
15 and 16 on the Selector Switch
Both sides of the Safety Thermostat Left
Both sides of the Drum Outlet thermostat
Both sides of the Control Inlet thermostat
Checked all of these from TB, they all gave me around 1900-1800 ohms.
Unless I am checking them wrong, they were all the same reading.
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Sounds like the timer is toast.
Timer contacts B to A should close (0 ohms) when in a heat mid cycle. |
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