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Jim in SM  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, March 4, 2009 8:08:24 AM(UTC)
Jim in SM

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I have to things going on....

The first is the F1 error code accompanied by the beeping. This has been going on for about two years and in this time the oven worked fine other than this. The beeping starts after cooking is done and the oven is turned off. Can take anywhere from 5 minutes to several hours before it starts beeping.

I have learned to just disconnect the touch pad ribbon from the ERC, after I press stop to turn the oven off, to keep it from beeping (and displaying the F1 error). This is a regular part of using my oven now. Once I'm done cooking I turn off the oven and disconnect the ribbon.

If I forget to disconnect the ribbon the beeping will eventually start again and will only stop if I press the stop button on the oven and disconnect the ribbon. It won't work if it is beeping and I just unplug the ribbon before pressing stop. It will stop by pressing stop but will eventually start again unless I disconnect the ribbon.

I read your test procedures and was wondering if after this description of my problem you recommend I still unplug the power to test? If the ribbon is disconnected I now it won’t start beeping again. From all I have read it is most likely the touch pad.

The second issue is now the oven will heat up to the set temp but won’t hold it. This has been going on for about 6 months and it takes forever to cook anything. The I think the element will heat up again but only slightly and not enough to cook. The only way I can get it to heat back up to the set temp is turn off, wait for the fan to stop (at about 365 degrees) and then turn back on and set the temp again. Could this be a sensor? To test the sensor do I just remove and place an ohm meter on the two wires looking for about 1100 ohms at room temp?


Sorry for the long winded description and thanks in advance,

Jim in SM
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simpk5  
#2 Posted : Thursday, March 19, 2009 8:51:50 PM(UTC)
simpk5

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Jim,

I can't help with the temp not holding, but what I did about the F1 error was to buy a cheap (10 dollar) remote outlet control at home depot.

You plug one 'box' into the outlet and plug the stove into that. Then, you have a small remote control which switches the power off to the stove.
It certainly beats pulling the stove from the wall at 3am. And since it so easily done, I can send one of the kids downstairs to hit the remote button!

My Magic Chef seems to have the F1 error about twice a year. By turning off the power, we get through those odd periods rather easily by pressing a button on the remote to power the stove back up when we want to cook. The only thing we lose is having the real time setting on the clock.

Other than the F1 error, we don't seem to have any other issues.

Once the oven gets out of that 'F1 error stage' which usually lasts a week or so, we just leave it powered on (via remote) until the next time.

The remote is small (similar to a car remote) and on a keychain so we hang it from the utensil holder on the counter next to the stove. That way its always ready.

Hope this helps. I don't think pulling that cable too often is a good idea as it's eventually going to cause a problem with the cable itself.

Best of luck.

John
denman  
#3 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 2:36:05 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAGIC CHEF 9875VRV | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual with some info which may apply to your unit
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16009722.pdf

Unplug the unit
Clean the connectors (keypad and control) with some electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Just be sure to let all the solvent evaporate before reconnecting.

I could not tell if the ribbon cable from the keypad had a connector on, it if it does not re: just some of the insulator is removed. It can be cleaned with a pencil eraser, do not use an ink eraser as this is too abrasive.

Also check the ribbon cable for hairline cracks across the tracks a magnifying glass hep here.

Unfortunately the manual does not give a pin out for the keypad so do not know how to check it with a meter.
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Jim in SM  
#4 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 7:11:00 AM(UTC)
Jim in SM

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Thanks for the replies... It's really quite easy to open the touch pad panel to get to the ribbon that is connected to the ERC. My oven is hard wired into a junction box so your suggestion would require me to pull the oven out and rewire. The way I do it now the clock still works and I just reconnect when I want to use the oven. I could live with doing this and saving the $$$ but as I mentioned previously, now I have a heating problem also

I tested the sensor by disconnecting from the ERC and placing the leads on the individual plug connectors. It read about 1500 ohms so I don't think that's the problem with the heating. Again it initially heats up to the set temp but doesn't hold that temp. Could it possibly be the thermostat? And if so how would I test this?

denman  
#5 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 10:43:05 AM(UTC)
denman

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1500 ohms seems too high, see below link
http://www.applianceaid.com/oven_temp_sensors_help.html

Sometimes if a ubnit cannot hold temp it is a blown element.
Many units use both elements for preheat and then only cycle the bake element.
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Jim in SM  
#6 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 10:56:36 AM(UTC)
Jim in SM

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Thanks Denman! It was more like 1000 ohms at room temp.

The bake element does heat up since I can see it red hot. Not sure about the broil though. I will have to check it.
denman  
#7 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 11:30:10 AM(UTC)
denman

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Starting to sound like the control board is shot.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Jim in SM  
#8 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 12:50:14 PM(UTC)
Jim in SM

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That's what I'm afraid of! Besides the $$$ I see that part is discontinued!
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