You probably have an automatic defrost problem. This ice buildup probably causes the fan noise. Lots of models do cut the fan off when you open the door. While you're troubleshooting it you can use a hairdryer to speed up the defrosting.

The defrost thermostat is clamped on the coils. It should show continuity with an ohm meter when it's cold and open when warm(above 35 degrees or so).

The defrost heater is at the coils and melts the ice during defrost. Disconnect it and it should show continuity between the two wires.

If both of these parts are ok the problem is the defrost timer(defrost control) part 6 on this diagram of your machine compartment & cabinet back. Replacement parts for MAYTAG RS2534WW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Part 38 on the freezer compartment diagram is the thermostat. It should be in contact with the coils. I believe the heater is part 43. It's below the coils so it will melt all the ice.

I did find the samsung on a sears parts site and the diagrams are the same.

You referred to the "Freezer Compartment" in the previous post, my problem is with the "Refrigerator Compartment" diagram 10 correct?
What I can see in my fridge is this http://www.appliancepartspros.c...t_id=4136651&image=0

I also have this Replacement parts for MAYTAG RS2534WW | AppliancePartsPros.com that plugs in and runs over to the brass part of the coils)
I then have another wire harness that plugs in and runs down the right side of the coil and has a red and a black wire, the end is wrapped in foam, under the foam seems to be covered is some type of blue plastic.

Can you now tell me which part is which and how to test them.
Thanks again

Here is another service manual which looks more relevant
http://www.servicematters.com/m...library/docs/SAM0059.pdf

Your first link looks like the tube with the wires coming out of it is the defrost heater. Could not find a spec for it but is probably around 30 ohms.

The manual does show a thermal fuse in the evap area. This should be 0 ohms.

Also shows a thermistor, the resistance should change with temperature, see the table in the manual.

You will need a meter.
If you do not have one, I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

woodchuckie
Hopefully the heater is OK. I also would be looking at a jiggery pokery if it was blown. Perhaps a length of pipe heating cable would work here depending on the wattage.

I do not think this part would effect the defrost operation but am not sure.
Perhaps Woodchuckie or someone else knows.

I would try to force the unit into a defrost, see Page 8 in the second manual I linked to.