You hit the nail right on the head. Gas valve it was :-) so now I have to mail back the two booards... thank you so much for your help and I guess I should change my username to working-oven :-).

UPDATE BELOW - PROBLEM RESOLVED

I have a similar issue and have gone through the troubleshooting that you suggest and looked at the tech diagram included with the stove.

One twist is that the unit was being used with LP and I just converted it back to NG. Turned over the pressure regulator, replaced the burner orifices back to the NG ones and backed the bake and broil orifices out 2 1/2 turns as the instructions say. Burners all work great. Oven and broiler click but won't light. I can see spark, but don't hear or smell gas.

The resistance on the regulator shows 199 for both bake and broil, is that enough of a difference from the 216 to cause an issue? I also checked the temperature control unit, should be 1080 ohms at room temperature, it was 1096 at 76*F, so I think that is fine.

Then I went into diagnostic mode and looked at the last code which was F5E1 Door Latch not operating, it showed that it was cleared at 1166 and accumulated time wa 1167, so I wasn't sure if this had anything to do with it. I Tested it by pressing the self clean button while still in diagnostics, and it locked and unlocked fine, but when it unlocked the lock check mark on the display wouldn't clear until I exited diagnostics. Went back in and it had cleared, tried testing again and the check stayed but the latch did unlock.

I don't know when the bake and broil stopped working, the person I bought it from said everything was fine, they were just moving.

The unit is a Whirlpool Accubake model SF362LXTY with a type 2 display.

I'm leaning toward the regulator unit, but I also read what you had said about the spark module and wanted to make sure that the 216 to 199 difference was enough to say that the regulator solenoids were bad, and then of course there was the door latch thing.

Thanks, Brian

UPDATE - OK I read farther through the other post about testing the regulator and found information on the safety valve on the regulator. That was my problem, it was tripped, n fact I probably did it when converting back to NG. What I would call the resting position is actually the tripped position. In this case the lever actually needs to be flipped up to open the gas valve (unlike a pressure valve on a hot water heater that would need to be left down at rest). So that would mean that the resistance of 199 must be close enough that it isn't a problem.

Just wanted to post this update in case anyone else is reading through.

Safety valve is in the lower left of this diagram, if you look closely you can see that it is actually flipped up. Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Oven Gas Valve Assembly, part number: AP3866825

Thanks again, this is a great forum.

Can you describe it more detailed please?

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool SF362LXSY0 30" GAS FREESTANDING SELF CLEAN RANGE SEALED BURNER | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

Your range has Direct Spark Ignition system, so the oven igniters should not glow. Instead they should spark to ignite the flame as soon as the gas starts to flow.

The first and most common cause for the problem you described is a bad gas valve/regulator (#15 at the diagram).

You probably already tested this part but I want to ask you to do it again. It is very important to remove the wires from the terminals before you will measure the resistance. Follow the instructions I posted in the one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros...l-oven-wont-heat-up.html

Post the results and we'll go from there.

Gene.

This part is not too difficult to replace yourself if you know how to handle a simple tools. The instructions are attached to the reply.

- The gas valve/regulator Part number: AP5306380