My glass top oven quit working after I saw a flash under the glass in the back left corner. The range burners work but the oven won't heat up. A little of the insulation in hte back looks dark but i haven't opened it up that far yet. I wanted a little advice before I dove into it.

Any ideas. My breaker went out also.

Dave

I've taken the back panel off but there wasn't much to see back there. I'm going ot have to go deeper once I gather some info on what to look for. Like I said there was a little burnt looing yellow fiberglass insulation near where the flash happened so you're probably on the right track hopefully a new part isn't going to cost as much as the stove itself.

Any idea what part might have blown? I copied the model number right from the front lower panel. I couldn't find my receipt fromt eh purchase but I figured the model number from the front would have worked.

dave

I'm not the best at following the wireing diagrams but It will be helpful. It would be nice if the could seperate the parts that are for the range top and for the oven so that if one goes out then you have half as many items to look at.

The flash happend between the Back left burner and the the warming burner or more behind the back left burner.

I think I could fix it if I just locate it, i'm normally ok on the handy side but obviously you uhave to know what you're looking at. Its obviously and electrical issue that has to do with the oven so we can focus it down to that.

I'll run through all the items to see what is working and what does not.

By burnt insulation do you mean the coating on the element itself OR the insulating blanket (fiberglass) which insulates the oven cavity.

The upper element is the broil, the lower is the bake.

If the broil element is toast (an open circuit), you should still get heat from the bake element so I do not think this will fix your problem.

PS Since you enjoy this type of stuff!!
The below would have allowed you to measure the broil element to see if it was shot.

I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.