Hello. Check the fill tube at the back of the ice maker to see if it's frozen up. If it is, the water valve [AP3192626] is at fault. You can thaw the fill tube out with a hair dryer after the water inlet valve is replaced. If there is no ice in the fill tube, the ice maker [AP4345120] itself is probably at fault, but you could have a water line in the door frozen. In this case you need to check the temperature in the freezer compartment to insure your not running below zero. Hope this was helpful!

Hello Doug. After ensuring the door seal is seating properly, I would use a flashlight to check the ice door. If you can see light around the ice door, this is causing your ice to melt and a long cycle time. As for the settings, neither setting should be maxed. I don't recommend going past one number below maximum. If this is required to achieve the proper temperature, you probably have a sensor going out of tolerance........or an air leak, such as an ice door.

Hello Doug. The ice door is the door in the freezer door that ice is dispensed through. If it isn't sealing the cold can escape and warm humid room air will go in to take it's place. This is the door you should check by shining a flashlight from one side while looking from the other side. If you see any light, air can get through, which can definitely cause an issue. I hope this is useful!

Hello Doug.The 10 degrees is way cold enough to freeze and cycle the ice maker (The ice maker cycles when the ice maker thermostat reaches 22°F). A couple of things to check right quick. First, does the freezer light go off when the door shuts? Operating the door switch isn't a real good check as the door liner may not be contacting sufficiently to activate the switch. Second, when the ice maker cycles, there is a heater in the bottom of the ice maker called the mold heater. We need to make sure it isn't staying on through the entire cycle or worst yet, all the time (You can take the control module off of the front of the ice maker and visually inspect the points on the backside of it. If the contacts appear burned, they are probably sticking and holding the voltage to the mold heater too long). These are the 2 things I most commonly found where the cubes were melting together. A third thing is the defrost thermostat. If the defrost thermostat makes connection even when it's warm, the defrost heater will be energized the entire time the unit is in defrost. You see, the defrost thermostats job is to turn off the defrost heater during the defrost cycle when the evaporator compartment reaches about 50° F to prevent thawing the freezers load every defrost cycle. To check this, the freezer wall has to be removed and you need to disconnect the wires going to it. To make sure it isn't stuck in the closed position, heat it with a hair dryer. When it gets above 50°F, the electrical connection will open. I hope this is helpful and not just confusing. If I can answer any more questions, please contact me again