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Having difficulty diagnosing an issue with my GE Monogram built-in fridge. After working fine for 6 years, the temp in the fridge started creeping up (45f) and the freezer (-5). GE repair ran diagnositics and could find nothing wrong suggested the door was left open. They told me to turn off for 72 hours. Restarted and worked fine for 7 weeks then the same issue. The repair tech said I should have left it off for longer because ice build up in wall between fridge and freezer. Once again after about 8 weeks same issue. Anyone have a suggestion?
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Hello. Sounds like an air circulation issue. It could either be attributed to a bad thermistor or a damper failing to open. I would gravitate to the thermistors first, as the information they send to the main control determines what actions the control will take. Of course the fault codes will direct you to the area which requires attention.
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I ran the diagnostics from the service manual and the thermistors all passed. During the initial service call the GE repair tech did remove the styrofoam covering to verify that the damper was moving, however we did not replace it. That is something I'm considering. Is it possible that the defrost system is not working properly such that ice eventually builds us?
Thanks,
Eric
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Yes. With a defrost issue, the frost pattern will cover the entire coil. If it's a fan issue the frost will mostly be on the top of the coils. As far as the damper issue goes, I've seen dampers act like they are going to operate properly, but when they are supposed to close some, close all the way. The dampers operation can be affected by a small amount of frost, even the small amount that can be generated from the icemaker being hooked to the hot water instead of the cold,(as the water is forced to evaporate when introduced into a below zero atmosphere).
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Hi there.
I have a similar issue on a ge monogram model zisb420dma. Freezer temp consistently -10 to -20 fresh food side too warm at 44 to 50.. I have already replaced the damper door between freezer and fresh food and both thermisters as well as main board, Still temps the same. I have been servicing appliances for 15 years but this one has me throwing my hands up. Wondering if the air channel could be frozen up and not allowing air flow in between both sides. Any help you could give would be appreciated..
Thanks
Richard
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Hello,
If you're running 10 to 20 degrees below 0, you could possibly be getting evaporation from the ice maker water fill. You see, the water that fills the ice maker is not cooled before being introduced to the freezer compartment. This means that room temperature water is going into a below zero atmosphere. This will cause evaporation like when cold air moves in in the fall and the water in a pond is warmer than the air. This causes a fog to come up from the water, (evaporation). This "fog" is circulated through the machine with the air flow and it will condense onto cold surfaces and freeze to produce frost. It is common for this type of issue to cause a frost build-up in the damper assembly.
The first step in attempting to eliminate this issue will be setting the freezer to run at or near 0°F. This will help prevent the condensation. Since you have replaced all of the parts that an cause the issue, this could very well correct the issue at hand.
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I appreciate your thoughts on what may be causing this issue. At first visit i suspected air damper control from freezer to fresh food, upon taking apart the light compartment and styro channel i noticed quite a bit of condensation and some frost on the wall where damper resides, i have experienced condensation like this before and usually indicates a lack of air flow. At this point having replaced everything mechanical/electrical controlling air flow im wondering if the problem resides in the actual channel from fresh food to freezer on the return. This is what ill check today to make sure that there is no blockage be it frost or other items.
Thanks again
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Hello, Here's another quick thought, on many units with this style evaporator fan motor, Part number: AP3875639
if the fan motor is malfunctioning, it will sometimes run, but at way too slow a rate. I test these by sticking my finger in the fan blade to stop it. When you let go of the fan blade, if the motor is good, the fan will take off immediately to full speed. A bad fan motor will either start slowly or you will have to "bump" the fan blade before it starts spinning faster, but still not up to full speed.
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Just had tech adjust the door hinge on my GE (Model GSS25WGPA) side-by-side refrigerator. The lights in the fridge stay on because the door is out of line and the switch to turn the lights off is not hitting correctly. Then the electronics go weird because they think the door is open.
Amazing, now all is well and am waiting 24 hours for the electronics to readjust.
Cheers
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I saw one used GE 42" built in , in Craigslist for sale for 500$ .
its same model as yours and I think its from 2001 .
do you think it worth it if I bought it
thank you
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