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DRA  
#1 Posted : Sunday, February 26, 2012 10:20:10 AM(UTC)
DRA

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prschroeter  
#2 Posted : Sunday, February 26, 2012 10:55:19 AM(UTC)
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Could be a faulty water temperature sensor, it won't close the cycle without the water reaching the proper temp.
DRA  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, March 6, 2012 8:52:28 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: prschroeter Go to Quoted Post
Could be a faulty water temperature sensor, it won't close the cycle without the water reaching the proper temp.


I'm presently looking at a possible faulty water trmperature sensor. Thanks for the suggestion. I read somewhere on line that it should read 55 ohms with an ohm meter at room temperature.

Running the machine through the diagnostic mode did not provide any usuable information.

I will update findings

Doug
DRA  
#4 Posted : Saturday, March 10, 2012 7:53:36 AM(UTC)
DRA

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Originally Posted by: prschroeter Go to Quoted Post
Could be a faulty water temperature sensor, it won't close the cycle without the water reaching the proper temp.



Thanks for the heads-up. I tested the input current with my Amprobe and found I got the correct value (1.5 to 2 amperes) when the drain pump or the circulator pump were running. When it was time for the heating element to function, I didn't read the normal 11 amperes. I now proved that the water is not heating during the wash cycle. Your were spot-on!

My next step to measure the voltage out of the control board, using a voltmeter. I sould measure 120 VAC on the RED wire when it is time for the water to heat during the wash cycle.

Getting a correct 120 VAC reading will prove that the relay in the control module is functioning and sending the required voltage to the heating element circuit. Unfortunately, there is also 2 sensors/switches in this loop, so further testing will be required to deterime which of the 3 components is actually defective.

No measured voltage will comform a defective control module. I will post updates.

Doug
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