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Originally Posted by: teocjr  It is on the top right of the stove, just behind the control panel; requires the oven to be pulled out about 6 to 8 inches, and the protective shield removed. Just changed one on my son's, just like on mine. Sure sounds like it is the problem. We have the new version and the problem is solved by a different ventiallation flow. Long story. teocjr Thank you very much for the information. I actually found the control thermal fuse. What I am not able to find is the shut down thermal fuse. And, I am not able to find the parts. Who did you order your parts from. Please let me know.
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ApplianceProParts. Thermal fuse (if blown, the control panel is completely dead; about 4 inches long, pencil shaped, encased in pliable clear plastic; top right, behind control panel) part no. AP3777386 (mfg. no. 44556654); the only other fuse I have written about is the thermostatic fuse, AP 3879224 (mfg. no. 9759242); disc-shaped, about the diameter of a quarter, located on the back, center of the oven; must pull out the entire oven to get to it; easy to replace. The first was around 11.50; the second $36. Plus shipping of course.
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jmclain09, The oven shut down fuse is located on the back of the oven and it's shown as #37 on the diagram. - The oven shut down fuse Part number: AP3879224
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Originally Posted by: Gene jmclain09, The oven shut down fuse is located on the back of the oven and it's shown as #37 on the diagram. - The oven shut down fuse Part number: AP3879224
Hey Gene: Thank you very much. I went to buy the part and was told I needed to purchase the entire control panel board. There is a part on my control panel board that looks very similar to the fuse you posted and it is on the right hand side of the control panel It has a black,dark grayish wire with a orange/reddish connector. At the base it is connected into a white block with 5 other wires. I do not see a way to remove the wire from the white block to replace it. Do I need to splice the wire and the connect the new fuse or do i just rip it from the base. Let me know how to get it out. If I can do that, it appears the part you suggested will work. At least I want to give it a shot as opposed to spending $230+ for the entire control panel. Again, thank you so much for your help. Jmclain09
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The fuse has a small latch on the end which can be open with a needle. As soon as you will have the fuse in your hands you'll see how to do it.
Gene.
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Hello All,First- thank you to those who have posted help regarding this topic. Before I order parts, I would be grateful to get confirmation of which to order.Model: KEBC208KSS02Problem: Completely dead (no lights, nothing) and locked after cleaning cycle.Questions:1. Should I try the inline thermal fuse first (since it’s easiest and cheapest)?2. Judging by the picture, I presume I need the 248 degree inline thermal fuse – can anyone help confirm? Part number: AP3777386 or Part Number: AP35914853. Is there a way to test the fuse(s)?4. If it’s advisable to get the other fuses, can any one confirm that this is the correct fuse for my model > Part number: AP38792245. Finally – are there other parts I would be wise to get such as the control board, the other fuse at the top / back, or cooling blower?Thankyou all again for your insight and help.
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Originally Posted by: cdgulkin Questions: 1. Should I try the inline thermal fuse first (since it’s easiest and cheapest)? 2. Judging by the picture, I presume I need the 248 degree inline thermal fuse – can anyone help confirm? Part number: AP3777386 or Part Number: AP3591485 3. Is there a way to test the fuse(s)? 4. If it’s advisable to get the other fuses, can any one confirm that this is the correct fuse for my model > Part number: AP3879224 5. Finally – are there other parts I would be wise to get such as the control board, the other fuse at the top / back, or cooling blower? 1. Yes 2. The Part number: AP3777386
is the correct part number. 3. Yes. Just test them for continuity. The oven shutdown thermal fuse (#37 on the diagram) can be tested from the front of the oven by measuring the resistance between the orange wire (connector P18-2 on the control board) and red wire at the oven terminal block. 4. Your order should be based on the previous test result. The Part number: AP3879224
is the correct part number. 5. I don't think you should order anything else unless your decision based on the troubleshooting results. Gene.
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Thank you Gene - I appreciate your advice. Hope I get it fixed quickly.
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First of all, thanks so much for the wonderful advice and help provided here. I'm sure it's gonna save us a ton of money. We had the same issue everyone's discussed - we put our top oven into self-cleaning mode, and a few hours later it shut down, left the door locked. Using the advice found here, I was able to release the oven door lock pretty quickly. I ordered the two fuses and a new blower. I figured, if I'm taking the oven out of the wall, might as well replace the blower. We finally decided to do the repair yesterday - we got the oven out just fine, replaced the blower and the back thermal fuse very easily. Unfortunately, while trying to get the thermostatic (?) fuse out of the white block that plugs into the circuit board, the wire broke. So now we have a little piece of the fuse in that white block, and I can't seem to get it out. Is there some technique to getting that out of there? I've tried going in from above, below, even through the side, but I can't budge it... Obviously can't get the new fuse in until I get the old fuse out...
Any advice is appreciated!!
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I have a repair scheduled for tomorrow. Can't do this myself.
I need my self clean to work, and everyone here says that after the fuses are replaced, don't use the self clean again.
I also read somewhere that a thermostat can be installed so that the self clean can work...
Any thoughts?
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