If you have voltage on one side but not the other, the fuse is bad. Turn off the power and try to bypass it like I wrote earlier and give it a try.

OK, lets try this. Use your meter to measure voltage between the thermal fuse blue wire and the white or white/red at the push to start switch while the timer is set for a cycle, and the start button is pressed. This would check for a complete circuit through everything except the motor.

Are your measuring between the two wires? One meter lead on the blue wire on the fuse, one on the red/white wire at the switch. Set timer to a cycle, press the start button and hold it down. What voltage do you get?

Yes. This tells me the circuit is working, but the fuse is bad, and very likely the motor is bad because when you bypassed the fuse, it still didn't do anything. The last thing you can check to verify the failure is to remove the front panel and the drum and take some measurements at the motor. With the fuse bypassed (because we know it's bad) the same check on the blue wire and red/white can be made at the motor connector. If you set the timer for a cycle, and hold down the start button and get 120vac, the motor is bad. You may be lucky and just find a loose wire, but you will need to get to the motor to check it out. Pay attention to how the belt wraps around the idler or it won't go back together so easily.

Just be careful, the red wires are the L2 side of the circuit and they have voltage on them too. Check between the blue and the red/white and see what you get. If you have voltage to a load (the load being the motor) and it doesn't work, the load (or motor in this case) is bad.