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I am replacing the main control board in my GE refrigerator. I want to verify the WR55x10942 replacement board is the correct part. The instructions indicate the connectors may be configured differently, but does not mention the quantity of connectors. The old board has 6 connectors and the new board has 8. Six of the connectors do match. Also, the instructions indicate that the white wire in pin 2 of the J1 connector should be cut. It explains that this wire may originate form a jumper or from a molded plug. I do have a white wire in this pin, but it originates directly from the harness. Lastly, the new board has a ground wire, but the old board does not. I only mention this to further describe the differences between the two boards as it is not a problem to attach the ground wire.
Thank you for your assistance.
Follow up: I noted that the instructions indicate the white wire should only be cut on models with certain serial number prefixes, which does not include my model.
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That board is a universal replacement. Some of the refrigerators have more functions than yours, board should work ok. If the serial # prefix and the instructions call for the removal of the pin 2 wire, remove it.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: richappy  That board is a universal replacement. Some of the refrigerators have more functions than yours, board should work ok. If the serial # prefix and the instructions call for the removal of the pin 2 wire, remove it. Thanks for your assistance. I installed the new board and it seems to be working well. I do have another question. Does anyone know what would cause the ice in the ice maker to clump? The heating element, thermostat, and the thermistor appear to be working as designed. I need to add that the water supply does not seem to be leaking. It acts more like the ice is partially melting and then refreezing.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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The melting ice is probably due to the bad motherboard.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: richappy  The melting ice is probably due to the bad motherboard. This was the reason why I replaced the motherboard. While it is possible there are two bad motherboards, would it be likely?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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Sometimes they ship a returned board that is bad. If the original factory tape on the box is missing, that's a returned board.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 10
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Originally Posted by: richappy  Sometimes they ship a returned board that is bad. If the original factory tape on the box is missing, that's a returned board. I purchased the board from this site. It had what looked like narrow packing tape sealing the box. Is there a way to determine what the factory tape looks like?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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The factory tape is nylon type packing tape. If it was re-taped you would see it.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 10
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Originally Posted by: richappy  The factory tape is nylon type packing tape. If it was re-taped you would see it. This appears to be the original tape. Any ideas as to what else could cause this symptom?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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It's possable the icemaker mold heater is comming on and staying on too long. Only way to verify is to install a new icemaker.
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