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richappy  
#11 Posted : Monday, January 24, 2011 11:15:34 AM(UTC)
richappy

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You are welcome, I spent a lot of time on it as it was rather difficult. Still need to get some real data to define estimates of power dissipation and actual compressor failure power levels. Will need to purchase a variable transformer to produce variable voltages to simulate "brownout" conditions.
Joe / APP Team  
#12 Posted : Tuesday, January 25, 2011 5:10:47 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
You are welcome, I spent a lot of time on it as it was rather difficult. Still need to get some real data to define estimates of power dissipation and actual compressor failure power levels. Will need to purchase a variable transformer to produce variable voltages to simulate "brownout" conditions.


That's a lot of work,

But would be "handy" and a great asset for future refference.

It's a shame most manufacturers, won't put that much effort into the service end of production.

:cool: :cool: :cool:
richappy  
#13 Posted : Tuesday, January 25, 2011 2:39:15 PM(UTC)
richappy

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Most don't care about service, but at least GE does a decent job in most areas.
Lots of times you can only supply the start device that is in the parts list for the refrigerator, yet lots of times the device can't be wired in without technical knowledge not provided.
This article I wrote should help and lower complaint calls.
Joe / APP Team  
#14 Posted : Wednesday, January 26, 2011 5:31:34 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Most don't care about service, but at least GE does a decent job in most areas.
Lots of times you can only supply the start device that is in the parts list for the refrigerator, yet lots of times the device can't be wired in without technical knowledge not provided.
This article I wrote should help and lower complaint calls.


Yes,

Your article will help, a lot of DIY'rs and technical / service people.

Once I get your note loaded up, I'll probably throw my old hand written nottes away.

(No, I probably won't, I don't throw anything away, I'll just move it to a different binder, LOL!).
richappy  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, January 26, 2011 12:55:29 PM(UTC)
richappy

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Thanks, I appreciate that.
Joe / APP Team  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, January 26, 2011 1:21:08 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Thanks, I appreciate that.


You deserve it,

Your Welcome
:cool: :cool: :cool:
speedwizard  
#17 Posted : Sunday, January 15, 2012 11:17:08 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: musicman_77 Go to Quoted Post
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
I am back in business with a working freezer.

Joe, I ended up ordering #AP4503412 (UPRO41 relay) from this website (great price), so I ended up supporting appliancepartspros after all. THANK YOU so much for your help and this forum.

Richappy, man you are an expert!!!, thanks to you as well. Your write up in the discussion section on PTC relays (found HERE) is VERY helpful for the layperson.

The directions of the UPRO41 come with four different wiring option on the package. Diagrams for: No capacitor, run capacitor only, start capacitor only, and both run&start capacitor. I saw a tall white capacitor in the bottom of the freezer, just wasn't sure if it used as a "start" or "run capacitor". I tried the "start capacitor" wiring first. The compressor just hummed and I quickly unplugged it knowing that it wasn't turning over. Richappy's long article on PTC relays made me realize it was functioning as a "run capacitor", staying on giving the motor a boost and not turning off after startup. I tried the "run cap" wiring and PRESTO, fired right up immediately.

I was sure to check all three pins on the comp for shorts first. I did have to cut off a weird proprietary connector for the common lead coming off the little circle Klixon temp cutoff sensor (that sits directly against the metal outer body of the comp) and crimp on one of the ones provided in the kit. I also had to remove the capacitor wire from the plastic harness to strip back about another inch for the new relay to fit properly back inside the protective plastic cover box and make it look pretty. I also ran a new dedicated GFCI 20A circuit to the area and plugged a 1500 joule surge box that has an alarm if it loses power. No more extension cord.

I thought I'd try to be descriptive in case it helps anyone else out there. The best part of this experience?? Grillin' steak for five nights in a row!!!! Man, the cholesterol....

Scott


Thanks for the detailed info Scott. I had exactly the same problem with exactly the same freezer. Your success and detailed story encouraged me to order the parts and stick 'em in the freezer --- with a similar success!!! :D:D:D:D
richappy  
#18 Posted : Monday, January 16, 2012 12:33:23 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Thank's for the feedback here! Only comment I have is to use a 1000 joule or above rated surge protector made for appliances and not for electronics. A lot of the surge protectors blow open when a power surge hits which can spoil a lot of food. I use a Belkin F9H620-CW 1240 joules, only $ 9 available on Amazon. This unit indicates ground integrity and protection status. Has no circuit breaker or series element that can be problematic.
Joe / APP Team  
#19 Posted : Monday, January 16, 2012 9:58:49 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: speedwizard Go to Quoted Post
Thanks for the detailed info Scott. I had exactly the same problem with exactly the same freezer. Your success and detailed story encouraged me to order the parts and stick 'em in the freezer --- with a similar success!!! :D:D:D:D


Speedwizard,

We're glad to hear you "took it and ran with it", a lot of people would've backed out.

We're glad you succeeded, with a little help from the AppliancePartsPros.com Repair Forum and our sibscribers. We're here to help our customer's and each other. Thanks for the update and the "how to" you found.

Thanks,
:) :) :)
techound1  
#20 Posted : Friday, August 9, 2013 1:56:45 PM(UTC)
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Hello and thanks to everyone who worked on this thread - it was a huge help in getting my freezer *almost* back to fully running. I found that the temp sensor (noted as "the little circle Klixon temp cutoff sensor (that sits directly against the metal outer body of the comp)" above) in mine bit the dust along with the relay. Anyone have any thoughts on sussing out a suitable replacement? I tried googling all of the bits of text I could imagine, but couldn't lay my hands on enough detail to find the proper replacement.
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