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end result..... hired a guy to come in and replace both thermal fuse in back of oven and behind the control panel.... THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND SUGGSTIONS!!!!!
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You are welcome. We are glad you were able to fix it. It is always a good idea to hire a pro if you do not feel comfortable to do it yourself.
Thank you for your feedback.
Gene.
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You guys seem to be very much experts so hopefully you can help me out (promise I'll post a reply on how it went). I've a Whirlpool GBS307PRS01 single oven made ~2006. While doing self cleaning, the control panel died with the door locked. Thanks to prior posts I've unlocked the door with a wire hanger, and checked continuity of the overtemp switch (indicates bad so I'll replace tomorrow). What I can't find is a thermal overload fuse in the wiring to the control panel or on the board; I see references to in a lot of related posts/responses but I'm thinking that my unit doesn't have one. The tech papers left in the vent area of the unit by the installers have references in the wiring diagrams to the overtemp switch but again no reference to a thermal fuse. Does my model really have a thermal fuse, and where do I find it? Thanks, and Happy New Year.
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It does not look like your unit has a control board fuse so odds are that the control board is shot.
I would check that there is power (120 volts) between L1 and Neutral.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
There is also a possibility that they put in a fuse and did not update the technical info. If there is one it is probably in the wires to the control panel.
It will be a bulge in the wire. Often it is in clear plastic tubing.
If the board is shot I would also replace the suppressor (Item 12 in Section 5) just as a precaution. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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I checked power supply at the terminal strip got 120V and 120V for L1 and L2 to neutral ground. Everything is tight. I don't see a fuse in the wires to the board, so I'm thinking that the board is shot; in reference to changing the board, I don't know what you meand by "Item 12 in Section 5."
With today Jan 2nd, I'll have to wait till tomorrow to get the parts as the part supply stores are closed. Thanks again.
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THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Thanks. I went ahead and replaced the suppressor, the control panel, and the temperature trip on the back panel. Good news and bad news. I powered the unit up and everything works except the "off/cancel" key: I was able to turn the oven on and turn on the bake/broil, change temperature, change time both up and down, etc., and each heating element started to get very hot when I used bake or broil. However, I couldn't stop the program once it started, so I shut it down at the breaker. Note that before I buttoned the oven up and just after I had installed the new components I had to jiggle the ribbon between the keypad because I got an F2 - E1 error ("Keypad ketail not connected"); then after I buttoned everything back up and reinstalled the oven in the enclosure I landed where everything works ex the off/cancel button. Thanks for any suggestions.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Have you tried cleaning/checking the keypad to control board connections.
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.
Unfortunately they do not publish the pinouts for the keypad so I cannot say what track is the problem. You may be able to trace this to the actual key so you can check it. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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hi Kayak,,Gene,,Denman,,,I don't know if anyone told yall lately but you guys are awesome and thanks so much for everything you do,,I gotta replace a sensor and got it under control,,was just double checking some info and found it thanks to you guys,,,,,again thank you for all you do and have a happy and healthy new year:)
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We're glad to hear we could help you out. If there is anything else we can help you with, drop us a line.
Gene.
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