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Frigidaire dryer not producing heat after replacing main components.
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I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting any heat from this dryer. I bought a new coil assembly and thermal fuse from appliance parts pros hoping one or the other would repair it. Well besides excessive lint and dust inside the cabinet, everything looked good including the coil. I went ahead and replaced it anyway along with the thermal fuse. Got it back together and still no heat on any cycle, with or without the vent hose connected. Its in a rental home 23 miles away from home and I forgot to bring a multimeter to test for full voltage coming from the wall. What else could it be?? Do the control panels on these go bad? It seems to work on all settings as far as I remember. Without anything in it, it seems to only go to cool down on the auto cycles when you start it, but I'm assuming that's because it's empty and doesn't sense wet clothes. Please help! Thank you!!
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FEQ1442ES0 Frigidaire/dryer | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...ebster/134509400efsa.pdfTry running the diagnostics. [COLOR="DarkRed"]I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting any heat from this dryer. I bought a new coil assembly and thermal fuse [/COLOR] The thermal limiter (fuse) in this unit kills power to the motor not the heating coil.I am not 100% sure of this as I do not know what the board does with the signal at J2-1, it may hold the heat relay open. [COLOR="DarkRed"]I forgot to bring a multimeter to test for full voltage coming from the wall. What else could it be??[/COLOR] You need the multimeter. First you have to check the power as the heating coil requires the full 240 volts and it is not uncommon to loose half the line. Have you tried flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without tripping the breaker. If power is OK check the hi-limit thermostat. If OK Check the thermistor. [COLOR="DarkRed"]Do the control panels on these go bad?[/COLOR] Yes they do. [COLOR="DarkRed"] It seems to work on all settings as far as I remember. Without anything in it, it seems to only go to cool down on the auto cycles when you start it, but I'm assuming that's because it's empty and doesn't sense wet clothes. [/COLOR] Sorry but I do not understand the above, what exactly is happening? " It seems to work on all settings as far as I remember.", does this mean that you get heat in some circumstances? The moisture sensor just advances the timer (control board) it is the thermistor that senses the heat. |
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Thanks for your response. I plan to be back today or tomorrow to test for full voltage. I did flip the breaker back and forth but only once and quickly.
All settings, including both auto dry and timed dry work and produce no heat, regardless of heat setting. My slight concern was on the auto dry cycles, the "status" lights would immediately go to "cool down" from "drying" when I started any of the auto dry cycles in any heat level, however, I was testing the unit without clothing. It still seems odd that it would immediately go to "cool down" portion of the cycle when started on any of the auto dry (perm press, normal, towels, ect). If I started a timed cycle, it would always start showing "drying". No heat in any mode or setting though.
Would that possibly point to the thermistor with it going instantly to "cool down" when starting an auto dry cycle since it is what senses the heat?
Also, as far as the high limit thermostat, is that the one included with AP2107129, Dryer heating element assembly? If so, it was replaced as that's what I ordered instead of just the bare coil.
Thanks again!
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Would that possibly point to the thermistor with it going instantly to "cool down" when starting an auto dry cycle since it is what senses the heat?[/COLOR] I am not sure but I would not think that it would. Take a wet cloth and hold it across the moisture sensor strips. Now does it jump to Cool Down? Now do you get heat? Be careful you do not get whacked by the drum baffles. Also do if the heat does come on stop the test ASAP as you can blow a thermal cut-off running it with heat on and tthe door open. [COLOR="DarkRed"] Also, as far as the high limit thermostat, is that the one included with AP2107129, Dryer heating element assembly?[/COLOR] I am not 100% sure of this but if it looks like the following it is the hi-limit. Part number: AP2131477
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Okay, thanks again for the help. I'll be going to the property tomorrow to replace a microwave as well as continue testing the dryer. I will test for the voltage and the moisture test.
The thermostat was definitely included with the new heater coil assembly, so it sounds like the only two options left would be the thermistor or voltage coming in.
I'll report back after testing it tomorrow. If the moisture test works and I get heat, would I simply need a new thermistor? Wouldn't it still produce heat in the timed cycles regardless of any dampness detected?
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]If the moisture test works and I get heat, would I simply need a new thermistor?[/COLOR]
Cannot say. You have to check the thermistor resistance.
If it is OK then ot is probably something else.
Wouldn't it still produce heat in the timed cycles regardless of any dampness detected?
It should but it depends on what they do with the thermistor resistance on the board. For instance if the board sees an open thermistor it may shut off the heat.
I would check the power first.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
If OK
I would unplug it and check the new hi-limit/heating coil combo.
It is not unheard of to get bad parts.
If OK then check the thermistor.
If OK then the centrifugal switch on the motor.
This is there to ensure there is air flow before the heater comes on.
Could be the motor is clogged solid with lint and is not letting the switch close.
Also might be a bad switch or a bad connection or the centrifugal mechanism on the motor.
If everything looks OK you can actually check it by unplugging the unit, removing the wires from the switch and shorting them together.
Tape them so they cannot short to anything else and also that they are out of the way so they do not get caught by the motor, drum etc.
You will have to hold the door switch closed and then hit start.
If it starts with heat then you need a new motor. The switch is not available as a separate item.
If OK then it is probably the control board that is shot. |
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Okay...did all tests suggested.
Damp cloth on moisture strips worked perfectly and put the auto cycles all to "drying" from cool down. Still no heat.
243 volts L1 and L2, 120 L1 and L2 to neutral.
Same at terminal strip. No visible damage or looseness of any kind on any of the wiring or connections.
No resistance on the high limit thermostat. Resistance slowly works down to a total of 5 ohms on the heater.
Thermistor has 48.5 K ohms, within spec according to data sheet.
Motor and blower clean and free of most debris. Jumped wires from centrifugal switch...still no heat.
I tried to run diagnostics on the control panel. Following the testing procedure to the T, it gave me a first code of 9E which doesn't exist (9 flashes on five indicator lights and 14 on the start indicator light). I cleared this code. The second code was AF (EAF) "Watch Dog Reset". I cleared this and exited diagnostic mode. Ran dryer, still no heat.
Given all these results, control board still appear to be the culprit? It functions 100%...all modes work, all LEDs work, nothing acts out of the ordinary...just no heat.
Thank you again!!!
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Given all these results, control board still appear to be the culprit?[/COLOR]
Yes that would also be my conclusion.
If you measure across the relay contacts on the board (COM to NO) and see 240 volts when the unit is running then you know for sure that the heater relay is not closing.
It could be a couple things:
The relay contacts are burned up.
The relay coil is open.
the control electronics on the board are not sending the signal to close the relay. |
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Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC)
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I agree it's the control board giving you the problem, been there done that. ;)
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Rank: Member
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Excellent...thank you for all the support!! Merry Christmas!
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Frigidaire dryer not producing heat after replacing main components.
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