Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
I bought an old used whirlpool washer a few months back and it has run fine until today. After filling with water, nothing happens. It acts as if the lid has been left open so I tested the lid switch with a multimeter and found it to be working properly.
When I switch the water level dial, it shoots a bit of water into the barrel, then immediately stops (its already full), so power doesn't seem to be the issue...
Since I got this washer it has always run whether the lid is open or not, which initially led me to suspect the lid switch. Now I'm at a loss...please help!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/31/2009(UTC)
Posts: 55
|
Originally Posted by: mosierap  I bought an old used whirlpool washer a few months back and it has run fine until today. After filling with water, nothing happens. It acts as if the lid has been left open so I tested the lid switch with a multimeter and found it to be working properly.
When I switch the water level dial, it shoots a bit of water into the barrel, then immediately stops (its already full), so power doesn't seem to be the issue...
Since I got this washer it has always run whether the lid is open or not, which initially led me to suspect the lid switch. Now I'm at a loss...please help! Digital or mechanical timer system ? If mechanical rotary timer, your timer might be stuck. Does a different wash cycle work properly ? If it still doesn't work on different wash cycle, it is still your lid switch...did you check it in the unit or did you remove and check ? Sometimes, the switch toggle is bent and doesn't have enough room to fully close and activate the switch.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
It is an old mechanical timer. I removed it and and inspected the wiring and nothing appears scorched or loose. Is there a way to test the timer in isolation?
I removed the switch and tested it with a multimeter. It clicks and closes the circuit when depressed. And after thinking about it I realized it had been working properly prior to today. A faulty lid switch shouldn't prevent agitation, correct? Just spinning and draining.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/31/2009(UTC)
Posts: 55
|
Originally Posted by: mosierap It is an old mechanical timer. I removed it and and inspected the wiring and nothing appears scorched or loose. Is there a way to test the timer in isolation?
I removed the switch and tested it with a multimeter. It clicks and closes the circuit when depressed. And after thinking about it I realized it had been working properly prior to today. A faulty lid switch shouldn't prevent agitation, correct? Just spinning and draining. It varies by model/year, I don't recall when it became universal for lid to be closed for agitation. So yes, agitation requires lid to close and switch to close as well. If it fills with water, then stops, it is usually lid switch. If you can click the timer knob over to another sequence and it still won't function, I am confident it is lid switch. Contacts on control knob don't usually burn on all points. But it could be the control knob timer motor...if that is the case, you should be able to click it to next steps and it still runs...you should be able to manually advance the knob and if lid switch is good, it will run next sequence.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
Thanks, but I'm pretty sure it isn't the lid switch. I've done continuity tests with a multimeter and the switch performs as it should. I've also tried jumping the plug that the switch connects to, with no success.
After discussing it with my girlfriend, we recalled that the washer, when it was working, used to immediately start to agitate once the water reached the right level, whether the lid was open or not, but during spin cycles opening the lid would stop the washer. This came up because she had been the last one to use the washer and had to twice stop it to adjust an off-balance load during spin.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
So to summarize:
-When engaged on a wash cycle, the washer fills properly, stops filling at the correct level, then nothing.
-The lid switch tests as functional, and the washer currently does not work during a part of the cycle when it previously did work with an open lid. (This tells me the switch is not the culprit).
-I am able to manually advance the timer, and it does not engage agitation, spinning, or draining on any cycle setting. Though it does open the valve to fill the barrel if I engage it on a wash cycle and the water level is low enough. (This tells me the timer itself is not the issue)
Unless someone has a better idea, I am forced to conclude there is a broken connection or short somewhere in the circuit flow between filling and timer engagement. Is this possible, or even make sense?
I'm starting to walk my way through the circuit diagram pasted to the back of the washer, but it's partially rubbed off. Is there one available online for this model?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
Update: I'm working my way through the circuit diagram. Some of the connections I would expect to be dead are reading live at 60V. This includes the timer motor, though it does not appear to be advancing despite the power. I also found that when I manually advance the timer dial the buzzer sounds at the appropriate time.
Is the 60V normal or a sign that there's a voltage drain somewhere? It makes sense to me that 60V might run some components (water inlet valve, buzzer) but not others...
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
I finally found the problem. I discovered a blown terminal in the wiring harness that connects to the motor switch. I replaced it, however now there is a loud hum when the motor should be engaging.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
Something in the drive train is seized up, or at least not moving as smoothly as it should. I suspect this is what caused the terminal to blow.
I removed the motor and found it spins fine. There was a fair bit of motor grease on the exterior of the gearcase. I'm thinking that maybe it leaked out of the gearcase or clutch assembly and that's causing the friction? I couldn't figure out how to detach the gearcase from the drive tube, at least while in the upright position, so I decided to call it a day.
Can someone please advise? What part is most likely to seize if the grease leaked out and is it worth trying to disassemble, replace the grease, and reassemble? I've come so far, and I really don't want to have to spring for a new washer.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
