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smitty33  
#11 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2009 7:31:04 AM(UTC)
smitty33

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Gene,
I received the control panel fuse you recommended AP3110028. One of the ends was too small to fit the connector on my oven. One end of AP3110028 is smaller than the other and my oven RBD275PDB12 has the same bigger sized connections. However, I bent the smaller fuse connector a little bit to get a decent connection. I thought all was good, until....
I turned back on the breaker switch to the oven and I now have clock power and an oven lgiht, but nothing else. The clock will not even adjust as the control panel seems dead. Next?? Thanks! Scott
Gene  
#12 Posted : Monday, February 2, 2009 11:13:53 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Scott,

Double check the connection of the control panel ribbon into the control board. The part number for that thermal fuse came up by the oven model number.

Gene.
smitty33  
#13 Posted : Monday, February 2, 2009 7:23:47 PM(UTC)
smitty33

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Gene,
It definitely looks like you're on to something. I opened my control panel/board again and see that I may have 'cracked' the ribbon, likely damaging some of the wires while replacing that darn fuse. It looks like the ribbon easily comes off the board, but looks 'built in' to the panel. Do I need to replace the entire panel. If so, do you have the part number? Thanks! (Black Whirlpool Double Oven Model #RBD275PDB12)
Gene  
#14 Posted : Tuesday, February 3, 2009 11:20:17 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Scott,

Unfortunately the broken ribbon is not repairable and you have to replace the entire control panel.

- The part number for the control panel is AP3131916

Gene.
smitty33  
#15 Posted : Thursday, February 12, 2009 11:44:54 AM(UTC)
smitty33

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Got the new control Panel installed and everything works great. Bummer a $10 thermal fuse fix turned into a $150 fix after I damaged the electrical ribbon between the board and panel. If anyone else is reading this, be careful not to damage the ribbon as you will have to replace the entire panel. I plan to never let my wife use the self-cleaning mode on this oven again.
Thanks again Gene.
Scott
Gene  
#16 Posted : Thursday, February 12, 2009 12:30:16 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome, Scott. I'm glad it works finely.

Gene.
justin_b  
#17 Posted : Friday, April 3, 2009 5:09:38 PM(UTC)
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Hi,

First of all thanks for reading and for any help. I had a similar problem to the other posters, dead controls after a self-clean. The oven is a Whirlpool double, RBD275PDQ6, about 9 years old. This self-clean cycle was odd, though, because nobody set it to clean, we never do because the first time we did it blew the thermal fuse. So my wife was pre-heating for baking and the self-clean came on. Maybe she hit the button accidentally, but we tried to shut it off and it wouldn't shut off. The display said "cool" but the elements wouldn't turn off, so finally we had to kill the power.

So I replaced the in-line thermal fuse, reset the door lock, and the control panel came back on and the lower oven worked. The top wouldn't heat, so I figure the thermostat is bad. I open the back of the oven and test the thermostat. No continuity, so I call the local appliance place and give them the part number I had, which was 4451442. The said that there is a new part number for the same thing, so I picked it up. It is an "FSP 9759243" and doesn't look like the old part, but they say it's the same. So I put it on, test for continuity, it looks good, so I turn the power on. There was a loud "pop" from the unit when the power came on, but the panel came on, and I started the top oven and it started to heat up.

About 30 minutes after the power came on, after I had the oven buttoned up and back in its cabinet, my wife smelled smoke and there was smoke coming from the control panel. I cut the power and opened up the panel, and one relay (I think, a little clear plastic box with copper coils in it) has completely burned up.

So my questions are, did I do something wrong replacing that thermostat that could have burned up the component? Was the part the appliance place gave me the right one? If I were to replace the whole electronics assembly, will it just burn something up again? Do I need a pro? Are the repairs worth it with the age of the oven?

Again, thanks for reading this long tale, and for any help.

Justin
Salt Lake City
Gene  
#18 Posted : Saturday, April 4, 2009 1:56:56 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Justin,

You've replaced the thermal cut-off for the upper oven and it was heating after you did it. If it's still heating then it has nothing to do with this part. The information form your local appliance place is correct. Whirlpool has redesigned this part and changed the part number.

At this time it is not clear what cause the short and damage to the control board. Try to figure out what is the fried relay for by the marks on the control board and the wiring diagram. Post the results.

Here are the break down diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RBD275PDQ6 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
justin_b  
#19 Posted : Monday, April 6, 2009 5:26:12 AM(UTC)
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Hi Gene,

Thanks a lot for your response. It looks like the relay was for the upper oven "bake" element. I disconnected the wire "P5-1" in the dagram and the lower oven still works fine. As far as tracking the short, I have pretty much exhausted my electrical know-how!

I really appreciate your taking the time to help!

Justin
Gene  
#20 Posted : Monday, April 6, 2009 3:49:13 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Justin,

Does the Broil in the upper oven still work? If it does then there is nothing wrong with the installation of the thermal cut-off you did. It is possible that relay died by itself.

Gene.
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