Hi,double problem,was always running hot,on reg setting,turn to med.clothes werent so hot.........now,there is new problem wont start when button pushed,some small hum noise comes from selector dial when push start button,but very low hum,almost hard to hear unless you put ear on dial,no noise from motor or smell,all settings on dial,dont matter,dryer doesnt start....Motor?relay?or the selector dial? which do I test first?thanx for any info u can provide,I am Auto mech,so taking apart no big deal,just want to test to see which part faulty.thanx.

Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram
Model SDE3606AZW

The thermal fuse is Item 4 in "Rear blkhd,air duct" section.

Note if unit is a series 14 the heater assembly must be changed, see below
http://www.servicematters.com/m...rary/docs/TDL-0072-B.pdf

The thermostat has a separate heater to provide for lower heat settings since your temp settings seem to work somewhat, the thermostat and it's heater is probably OK. Not a 100% as thermostat may be opening at too high a temp.
The very hot clothes may be caused by a dirty vent system or the vent's louvers not opening correctly, a clogged up blower wheel or a dirty lint filter (if you use fabric softener it can coat the screen and greatly reduce air flow, clean it with soap and water).

If the vent system is hard to check (up through the roof) try the below

Undo the dryer from the exhaust
Run a load
If the load dries correctly then you have a vent problem.

If you do not want lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose, put one leg into the other and attach this to the dryer exhaust.
Leave enough room behind the dryer so it can blow out like a windsock.
Run a load.

Both the above will allow you to check the air flow and temp.

If temperature is now OK you will have top clean/check the vent system.

one of the thermal fuses or thermostats came up as open with my tester
The thermostats have nothing to do with starting the motor as the heater circuit is not switched on till the motor starts running re: centrifugal switch.
The thermal fuse does stop the motor, the motor's power goes through it (see the wiring diagram).

but I am still concerned as to why I am getting the same result when I pull all connectors off the 220v motor,and the meter is telling me its an open circuit.....
The motor does not run on 220 it runs on 120 volts, not sure what you are measuring.

am I testing it correct?
No idea, do not know what type of a tester you are using or where the test leads are attached.

Any way to bypass the myriad of controls just for a minute,to see if the motor runs?Then I can deal with blown elements and thermal fuses,but I dont know how to bypass to get motor to
You need to make up a test rig to test the motor (bench test)

You can short the two wires to the thermal fuse together. Tape them up so they cannot short to the frame. If this is the cause then be sure to give the interior including the blower wheel a good cleaning. Also clean and check your vent system. A dirty/malfunctioning vent system is the most common cause for this fuse blowing