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sluggermike  
#1 Posted : Thursday, November 24, 2011 12:37:19 AM(UTC)
sluggermike

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My double oven is almost two years old. Yesterday I selected the self clean cycle for a medium dirty top oven. The cleaning cycle took three hours. Today I tried to bake something in the top oven and the heating elements would not come on. The display stays at 100 degrees which I assume is a default reading. The bottom oven which was not cleaned works fine. Several years ago I had the same thing happen on another oven after the self clean cycle. The repair man fixed it by replacing the temperature probe. Does this sound like the same temperature probe problem, and is there a way to check it before I spend the money on a new one? Thanks
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, November 25, 2011 4:06:10 AM(UTC)
denman

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I cannot find a parts listing for the given model number at AppliancePartsPros.
I did find it at the Sears site.

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Sounds like the thermal cut-off (switch) that is attached to the back out side of the oven is open. It should be 0 ohms (closed) at room temperature.
It kills power to both elements.
It is Item 219 in the Upper Oven section at Sears.
Manufacturer's part number 318004902.
AppliancePartsPros part number AP4322493

See attachment for the parts breakdown which may help you locate it.
denman attached the following image(s):
EW30.jpg
EW Upper Oven parts.jpg
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sluggermike  
#3 Posted : Saturday, November 26, 2011 11:27:22 PM(UTC)
sluggermike

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Fortunately my wife baked the pumpkin pies before I tried to self clean the lower oven. Now I have both ovens out of commission. There must be some defect in this oven. I just checked for a recall, but did not find one.
sluggermike  
#4 Posted : Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:25:55 AM(UTC)
sluggermike

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What type of reading should you get off of the temperature probe if it is defective?
Thanks,
denman  
#5 Posted : Sunday, November 27, 2011 10:08:22 AM(UTC)
denman

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The thermal cut-off should be 0 ohms.

For the temperature sensor see 7, 8, 20 and 21 below
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html

Also since both ovens are out I would check the power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.

[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
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sluggermike  
#6 Posted : Monday, November 28, 2011 11:58:27 PM(UTC)
sluggermike

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Electrolux told me that they had a problem with the thermal cut off switch for this particular oven. They have agreed to replace both switches free of charge.
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