Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error
3 Pages<123>
Kitchenaid fills but doesn't wash....
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Model: KUDIO1ILBL3 Brand: Kitchen Aid Age: 1 - 5 years
Previous Topic Next Topic
wotan2525  
#11 Posted : Thursday, January 29, 2009 4:54:19 AM(UTC)
wotan2525

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14
I went ahead and bought the complete motor/wash assem. This included the capacitor and basically everything else.... Installed it, checked for leaks.... still have the same problem!

What's next?!
Back to top
denman  
#12 Posted : Thursday, January 29, 2009 7:04:33 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
So it fills and the motor just hums like it used to.
Correct?

Something very strange is going on.
Check across the motor for voltage.
Should be 120 volts.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Back to top
wotan2525  
#13 Posted : Thursday, January 29, 2009 7:07:23 AM(UTC)
wotan2525

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14
You're exactly right.

I know how to use a multi-meter to check.... can I check at the motor connector (with it disconnected?) or do I need to have the motor connected while testing (which is going to be very, very tricky to do!)

Thanks again for the help!
Back to top
denman  
#14 Posted : Thursday, January 29, 2009 7:31:21 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Would be best to do it with the motor actually in circuit, that way you will know what the actual voltage is that the motor is seeing. Then if it is low disconnect the motor and try it again to see if there is any change.

Sometimes a device can draw down the voltage. For instance if there is a bad connection which adds resistance to the circuit, once current passes through this bad connection it will drop voltage but if you just measure it without any current draw the voltage looks OK.

If it is difficult to get your meter leads onto the motor plug when it is connected, you may have to get a couple pieces of insulated wire, strip both ends back, attach these across the motor, then tape them in place so they cannot fall out or short and then measure across the other ends.
Or if you have alligator clips/wires.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Back to top
wotan2525  
#15 Posted : Thursday, January 29, 2009 11:50:12 AM(UTC)
wotan2525

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14
I think I'll pull the wash assem. back out -- this should allow me access to the motor leads and I'll be able to meter them. I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks for the help....
Back to top
wotan2525  
#16 Posted : Thursday, January 29, 2009 6:20:29 PM(UTC)
wotan2525

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14
Ok. I checked voltage at the controller .... is this ok? It was drawing 118.8V when the pump was humming.
Back to top
denman  
#17 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2009 3:30:53 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Are you starting to get as frustrated as I am???

So maybe a recap will help
1. Motor rotates easily by hand re: is not jammed
2. Pump and capacitor are new and we assume OK, getting a bad one is unlikely.
3. Voltage at control board is good

Only thing I can think of is something is dropping the voltage down between the control board and the motor.
The million dollar is what and where??

I do know that there have been problems with rinse aid leaking down onto the wires in the door and causing all sorts of problems but do not believe your unit was involved in this recall.
Run your fingers along the wires going to the motor to see if there is a soft spot or a kink or any indication that it has overheated.
Could try measuring the wires from the control board to the motor for resistance, they will have to be disconnected at the motor end to ensure you do not get an alternate/parallel circuit path reading.

I am afraid you are going to have to measure the voltage at the motor with the motor connected.

If that is approximately 120 volts then I am STUMPED.

If this is the case the only thing you can do, that I can think of is a bench test. This would involve pulling the motor, attaching a line cord to it then plugging in the line cord to see if it will run.
Probably will need two people to do this as someone will have to hold the motor assembly down on the bench/table so it does not take of if the motor starts.

Starting to think this machine is messing with us!!!
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Back to top
wotan2525  
#18 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2009 6:29:15 AM(UTC)
wotan2525

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14
What is the possibility that I have two bad motors?

Here is what I've figured out:

- Put 120V to old motor (I believe I did this correctly.... the connector had two heavy gauge blue/yellow wires, I hooked this up to a 120v source, I left the black pin disconnected) -- all the old motor did was BUZZ.

- Checked resistance of wires between controller and new-motor -- these were fine.

- Checked for 120V at new-motor -- checked out.

I don't see what else it could be.... I have not bench tested the new-motor for problems yet, but I am pulling my hair out with this damn thing. Any other advice before I go back to the person I bought the motor from?
Back to top
denman  
#19 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2009 11:14:40 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
First I assume you left the capacitor attached to the old motor when your bench tested it.

Second I am not sure if you connected it up correctly.
If your unit is the same as a picture I found on a Kitchenaid motor then the hook up would be incorrect. The pictured shower blue and yellow as the wires going to the capacitor, if you connected just across the capacitor then it was not connected correctly.

Just to make sure you have it right, take a look at the tech sheet.
Disconnect the capacitor
Should have a common, a run winding (3.7 ohms) and a aux winding 6.25 ohms).
Should be able to figure it out with the meter.
You want to connect to the common and the run connections with the capacitor reinstalled.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Back to top
wotan2525  
#20 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2009 11:21:46 AM(UTC)
wotan2525

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14
The connector (on the motor) had 4 pins on it:

Pin 1: Female - Yellow, 10 gauge
Pin 2: Male - Black, 20 gauge
Pin 3: Male - Blue, 10 gauge
Pin 4: empty

The capacitor had two wires running to it, Yellow and Blue (both 10 gauge.)

When I bench tested it, I left the capacitor hooked up and connected Pin 1 and Pin 3 to 120V. Based on your descriptions, this does sound correct. It made the same noise that it made when it engaged while installed.
Back to top
Users browsing this topic
3 Pages<123>
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.

Privacy Policy | Powered by YAF.NET | YAF.NET © 2003-2024, Yet Another Forum.NET