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John79  
#1 Posted : Saturday, October 15, 2011 10:18:28 PM(UTC)
John79

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Hello,
I have a 5yr old GE xl44 gas stove ( model#Jgbp24bea5wh) and I am having trouble with the oven. The Broiler works fine however; the lower burner which is the oven burner will not light. The ignighter seems to have power but will not glow and get hot enough to turn on the gas from the safety valve. I unplugged the igniter wire at the safety valve then plugged it back in and the igniter glowed got hot and the oven worked fine for a day or so then suddenly quit. Now it will not glow at all even if I do what I did previously. Dose it sound like its the safety valve or igniter? Please help... Any suggestions will help! Thank you
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Rudy Koolovitz  
#2 Posted : Sunday, November 13, 2011 7:17:38 AM(UTC)
Rudy Koolovitz

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Did you get an answer to your question? We cannot see that you did and also want to know the same thing
Rudy Koolovitz  
#3 Posted : Sunday, November 13, 2011 7:18:35 AM(UTC)
Rudy Koolovitz

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Did you get an answer to your question? I have the same question.
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 15, 2011 11:24:28 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: John79 Go to Quoted Post
Hello,
I have a 5yr old GE xl44 gas stove ( model#Jgbp24bea5wh) and I am having trouble with the oven. The Broiler works fine however; the lower burner which is the oven burner will not light. The ignighter seems to have power but will not glow and get hot enough to turn on the gas from the safety valve. I unplugged the igniter wire at the safety valve then plugged it back in and the igniter glowed got hot and the oven worked fine for a day or so then suddenly quit. Now it will not glow at all even if I do what I did previously. Dose it sound like its the safety valve or igniter? Please help... Any suggestions will help! Thank you


John,
You most likely have a weak glow bar igniter,

Part number: AP2014008
Part number: AP2014008


When the igniter is glowing, it has to produce 2.5 to 3.0 VAC to the wires/terminals on the safety valve or draw 2.5 to 3.0 amps on the wiring, in order to open the bimetal switch in the safety valve to release the gas and achieve ignition.
If you can access a multimeter or "clamp on" amp probe, you could test the circuit.

Here's some meter usage information should you need it.

http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html

Thanks and Good Luck,
:) :) :)
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