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I have a GE XL44 Model JGBP31WEC4WW with an oven that won't light. I ordered a new igniter and that did not fix it. Using an ohm meter, the old igniter was open with no continuity, and the new one does have good continuity, so I assume the old one was broken. I checked for 120v to the igniter and there is no voltage when the oven relay clicks on. So I ordered a new control board and put that in, but I still do not get 120v to the igniter. What else could it be? Everywhere I have read it is the ignighter or the control board on these. Any advice is appreciated.
Scott
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Try tracing your wires from the control board to the ignitor, you will probably need to remove the rear panel. You could have a broken or chewed wire inside.
Nat
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Originally Posted by: libertyappl  Try tracing your wires from the control board to the ignitor, you will probably need to remove the rear panel. You could have a broken or chewed wire inside.
Nat I will check that. I did put a continuity test from the control board yellow wire where it says "BAKE" down to where it connects to the igniter on the bottom of the stove and it tested out OK. I saw the yellow wire coming out and going to the igniter there, and there was continuity. I didn't check the other wires since my broiler and stove top works OK. Should I check them all? thank you!
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Just to add my 2 cents... Check for continuity between the Bake terminals on the gas safety valve. The wires have to be removed from any terminals prior to continuity test. If it shows open circuit then the gas safety valve has to be replaced. - The part number for the dual safety valve is AP2022753Gene.
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On the gas safety valve, which terminals are the bake terminals? There are two on the top and two on the bottom. On the top toward the oven back is a white wire, and the front is a blue wire. The bottom back has a white wire jumped to the top back, and the bottom front goes out to the igniter wire.
The gas safety valve doesn't look like something a regular joe like me can replace. Gas makes me a little nervous!
thanks again,
scott
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Scott,
You can find these terminals following the Bake igniter wires. The white wire usually is a common for both Bake & Broil parts.
When you work with gas parts and/or connections just be very careful and do not forget to turn the gas valve behind the range off first. After you'll finish it call a local gas company to check everything for a possible leak.
Gene.
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On the gas valve, the top two terminals one is blue and one is white. That looks to be for the broiler. I put a continuity test on those and it showed continuity. The bottom two terminals, one was yellow that goes to the BAKE terminal on the control board and the other is the white. There is NO continuity across those two terminals. So I am guessing the gas valve is bad.
Does it sound like I tested across the correct terminals?
Bummer.
Scott
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Sounds like you were right and the gas safety valve has gone bad.
Gene.
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