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Hello and thank you for taking the time to read this. I am currently experiencing a few complications with my GE Profile Gas Range model# JGB900SEF3SS. The top left front burner is smoking from the flame. The flame is orange/yellow in color and burning real hot as it gets the grill red in color. Not the normal blue in color flame. The right rear burner ignites for maybe a second or two but then poofs out with an excess of pressure. You can still briefly control the low and high of the burner in the first couple of seconds but then regardless of where you have the dial set at it over pressurizes the flame out. The oven has not been heating to the right temperature. For example if we set it at 400F it states it is there but our inner thermometer registers 280F. So if we cancel it out and restart the oven it shows the 280F and continues to get closer to the 400F. We have to do that a few times in order for it to get up to that 400F point. The left front burner and oven temperature problem has just started and we have been using this range for some time now. The rear right burner has been an issue that has been around for some time now. But has worked properly in the past. I am assuming I need to replace the oven temperature sensor and burner controls but not certain on that or the actual part numbers. Thank you for any and all help and I sure hope to hear from you real soon so that I can get these parts ordered through your site. Hoping there is a Priority mailing option to get these parts in soon. I can't stress the urgency enough. Thank you SO much.
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Basically there are two separate problems: oven temperature and surface burners. Regarding the surface burners problem you may want to start from cleaning all burners including the burner cups, bases and igniters. Make sure the ceramic part of the igniters not damaged. Using a needle, clean the central hole the orifice spuds (#3 on the diagram). While assembling the burners back, make sure all parts are in place. The oven temperature sensor can be tested by measuring its resistance. The normal reading suppose to be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature. Post the results and we'll go from there. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric JGB900SEF3SS Gas range | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Gene, Thank you so much for the quick reply. The burner cups, bases, covers, igniters, and orifices have all been cleaned prior to seeking replacement parts and it changed nothing.
If the temperature sensor is in question and should be checked I will have to trust that is in fact a part that needs to be replaced. I am under a time constraint that is tough to relay in words. Not to mention I am currently in another state from the range. I will just purchase it to save any time. Could you confirm a part number for me? Could it be any other part causing the oven to do that? Thank you SO very much. Hoping to hear back from you soon.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Hi Mike,
Sorry for the delay.
I forgot to ask you one very important question: what is the gas source for this range - LP or Natural gas? If it is LP then who and how made the conversion?
Gene.
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LP. Unsure of the conversion details. I am also unsure why it would be a conversion issue having working well for sometime. Maybe I am missing something :confused:. Please explain.
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Per your description there is a problem definitely connected to the gas pressure. LP gas has much higher pressure than Natural gas. During the conversion a few orifice spuds have to be replaced (the difference is the size of the center hole) and the gas pressure valve (#214 on the diagram) has to be adjusted. Also there suppose to be a second pressure valve connected to a gas tank. Before you order any parts you have to confirm that everything is correct with the gas supply. Gene.
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Okay. I could be easily wrong here but if there was deficiencies in the LP conversion from the beginning, wouldn't the problems experienced from such be apparent right away verses years down the road which is the case here? This was a fully working range. Over time these problems developed. Not all at once. It just got to be too many to deal with. Hence the reason why I am shopping for parts. I understand the need for the basic questions. But lets not get caught up in the basics without seeing the whole picture. Also, without having an LP conversion kit at my disposal, how would you suggest I determine if the correct orifices were in fact used? Same with adjusting the correct pressure on the valve? Would it be possible to share any specifics with me. I can't help but be a tad impatient right now. I am under extreme deadlines to get this operational. When I originally contacted APP about a week ago they informed me they don't have a tech available to talk to and suggested I post a question on the forum and it will be answered by a tech in 24-48 hours. Well here we sit about a week later and still covering some basic questions without really getting anywhere. Such as if I cleaned it up yet or what orifices are and what they do. Now I must believe you are extremely busy. But if you could just relay possibilities of what it might be, maybe we could get there faster to reduce your time on matters similar to this as well as my lack of time too. I wish a simple phone call was an option. This online crap is by far slower and much more inefficient when it comes to repairs such as this.
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Originally Posted by: mikebrks ...The top left front burner is smoking from the flame. The flame is orange/yellow in color and burning real hot as it gets the grill red in color. Not the normal blue in color flame. The right rear burner ignites for maybe a second or two but then poofs out with an excess of pressure... Yellow flame usually caused by improper air mixture or oversized burner orifice. Because air mixture can not be adjusted for this range, you may want to replace the orifice spud for the left front burner. The problem with the right rear burner very likely caused by the gas burner valve malfunction and, less likely, by the pressure regulator. Unfortunately the diagrams provided by GE are not clear and I'm not sure about correct part number for the orifice spud you needed. On the other side they are absolutely inexpensive and you may want to order all four and return unneeded later. You also can order the LP conversion kit which includes all 4 orifice spuds as well as the instructions for less than $15. - The gas burner valve Part number: AP2023286
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