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bradleyg  
#1 Posted : Thursday, October 27, 2011 6:25:12 PM(UTC)
bradleyg

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Hi Gene,

I was told over the phone that my neighbor’s refrigerator was warm, and that there was lots of snowy frost on the back wall of the freezer. I assumed that there was a defrost problem, either a bad heater, timer, or defrost thermostat. The next day I looked at the unit, and it was unplugged and warm, so I never got to see the frost pattern on the coils, but I assumed that since they said there was so much frost, that it had to be a defrost problem. I tested the heater and found it was bad. Then I installed a new heater and cleaned the condenser coils. So far, so good.

Then I tested the amp draw of the compressor, and it was about 2.5 amps. I am concerned because this seems too high. Do you think they have a sealed system problem? Is it possible that there was a bad frost pattern on the coils even though they say the back wall of the freezer was all frosty? They say that the problem was building for maybe a month.

I guess I’ll find out tomorrow from my neighbor if the refrigerator is cooling or not, but I’m trying to understand this, and I want to figure if I analyzed this incorrectly (aside from working on a fridge that was not plugged in for a day or two). Can you help? Thanks.
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Saturday, October 29, 2011 2:00:58 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Check the label, if it has R12 refrigerant, that is a normal current. If R134A, it is too high.
bradleyg  
#3 Posted : Saturday, October 29, 2011 10:31:24 AM(UTC)
bradleyg

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Thank you for your reply. Yes, I checked and it's R-134A. I heard that the correct range should be 1.2 to 1.6 amps, that anything above or below that is bad. I haven't yet heard back from my neighbor about a problem. What does it mean at 2.5 amps? Seems too low for a restricted system, is it just that the compressor is inefficient? Thank you so much for you help.
richappy  
#4 Posted : Sunday, October 30, 2011 1:02:09 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Usually a high current draw is due to high head pressure from non-compressables sucked into the system from a refrigerant leak. The low side pressure would be in a vacumm and cooling would be minimal. If a burnt winding, the compressor would not start.
bradleyg  
#5 Posted : Sunday, October 30, 2011 10:45:15 AM(UTC)
bradleyg

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Thanks again. Four days ago I installed a new defrost heater. I noticed the high amp draw when I finished and I told them to call me if there was a problem with the refrigerator but I haven't heard anything so I assume the fridge is working OK. I was just curious about the high amp draw. Maybe the high amp draw is only a problem if there is a bad frost pattern or, as you say, minimal cooling. But since the rear of the freezer was so frosted, I assume that there was good cooling going on. The compressor was definitely running when I left, so not a burnt winding. They could still call at any moment to tell me there is a problem...
richappy  
#6 Posted : Monday, October 31, 2011 2:53:10 PM(UTC)
richappy

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I would check on it, as a minimum, it is wasting power, at worst, it is not keeping the temperatures at safe levels
bradleyg  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, November 1, 2011 6:36:01 AM(UTC)
bradleyg

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Good idea. I'm going to get them a refrigerator thermometer so that they can make sure that the temperature is at a safe level. Thanks richappy.
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